Quote:
Originally Posted by MyanRagahis
Just wanted to make a quick video of how the Zero Point Calibration isn't working for me.
Unplugged the positive terminal overnight and plugged it back in this morning, still there.
My Zero Point Calibration Issue Video
Decided to follow rigtec's thread and pull the short pin fuse and the ECU fuse until I leave for work at 3 today.
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Hi MyanRagahis,
I mentioned pulling the
"Short-pin" "TO-RESET" the
Main body ECU Compu Network just in case your problem isn't as sever as mine was; after all, I lost my Speed-o-meter and the Tach-o-meter, as well as the instrument cluster, the Instrument panel, and EVERY (False) warning light was staying on!
This before the trouble spread through the CAN-bus network, and caused the alternator to shut down. It didn't cause any damage to anything, but the inconvenience was horrific to say the least! I realize that you can't drive the vehicle with the short-pin pulled, but don't know how many of these trucks have needed a simple
ECU Master RESET!
I have the
Tech-Stream cable cable set-up, but when the OBD-ll stops communicating the cable won't do you any good; which I've had happen as well! but there are ways to clear the DTC's without the Tech-stream cable tool; see below:
YouTube There are a TON of these you-tube vids that will show you the proper way of clearing DTC's w/o a scan tool! Just take note: The DLC3 is shaped like a this \__/ with the top part closed. Mine is up-side down like this: /___\ so my number 16 is in the upper left-hand corner and the #1 is at lower right-hand side.
It can be confusing if you're watching you-tube and there's is the opposite than yours; so be careful! Post again if you need any help; there's NOTHING that you will encounter that I haven't either been through or seen, lol!
'Best to you',
rig, cheers!