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Old 07-07-2019, 08:00 PM
pinemind pinemind is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Sweetwater, NJ
Posts: 79
pinemind will become famous soon enough
pinemind pinemind is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Sweetwater, NJ
Posts: 79
pinemind will become famous soon enough
It's ALIVE!!

Made a lot of progress over the extended holiday weekend, although the weather was unbearable and stormy, so I lost about a day's worth of work over the 3 days I worked on it. First I started with getting the power steering pump installed and hoses connected. Then all of the pulleys and fan clutch attached so I could get the belts torqued up.














New non-yellow fan installed:





New radiator and cap:





Brake booster and Aisin master cylinder





Shroud (and new lower shroud) installed:





New silicone radiator and heater hoses all around:





Brake booster vacuum hoses and valve:





Next was the air box and AFM, intake hoses, clamps (one new intake elbow, other was discontinued but checked for cracks and holes):








Soldered, plumbed, fuse tapped and grounded all the wiring for the 4-wire heated Denso O2 sensor. Hacked back the connector pipe a bit. I didn't install the cat yet as I'm just going to have the shop that fabs up the rear of the exhaust to finish it off. Note, I tapped off the cigarette lighter 15 amp fuse in the driver's side kick panel, using a 5 amp fuse for the heated sensor. It was the only non-critical ignition switched fuse. I ran the wires back through the hood release grommet (heater wire and ground).





And here it with all the main components installed for starting up. I went ahead and bled the brakes and clutch systems using a Motive power bleeder. Triple checked all my electrical connections and grounds.





I had to wait until the next day to attempt to start it, since it was crazy stormy and I wanted to be able to watch the coolant, temp gauge, check the new oil pump for leaks, etc. Of course, drumroll, it didn't start. It was cranking over but wouldn't go, almost like I had removed the EFI fuse (which I do as a poor-man's kill switch anyway). I went to the FSM and started following the troubleshooting steps. Using a timing light, I was able to see that there was no spark at the spark plugs. Further testing by removing a plug wire, holding it to a ground and looking for an arc. Nothing.

Baffled as I was very thorough in most of this work, main reason it took 2 months. However, I also remembered the holy grail of early Toyota issues: grounds. Realizing I didn't touch anything with the fuel delivery system, I started looking at the coil/ignitor. I had painted almost every bracket that used to be bare/zinc coated metal in the bay. And for 99% of them, I used a Dremel to grind off the paint so the screws to the fender wells would have clean metal. But I forgot the most important one: the coil/ignitor bracket. I used a multimeter and did the FSM voltage test from positive and negative coil to the screw on the ignitor, and I was getting < 1 volt. Moving the lead to a body screw, I was getting 12 volts.

So I took off the coil bracket, ground off all the paint on the underside, and also on the top two places where the ignitor screws into the bracket. Cranked it all back down, and voila! She starts!!!

I used a no-spill funnel to burp the radiator/cooling system as it came up to temperature. The heat was on full blast to move everything through. No crazy sounds from the belts, so I luckily got the alternator jacked back enough to get proper tension. Watched the oil pump where the main oil leak was from and no leaks. Pulled the throttle a bit to speed up operating temperature, then went to work on purging/filling the power steering system. This took a while, and a lot of wheel turning with some horrific groans, I thought I broke the damn thing. But eventually, I had it filled and quiet. No warning lights on the dash, temperature never got above 1/3 and NO OVERSHOOTS!! I replaced the thermostat with the dual stage as the original was always giving me anxiety with it reaching the red and shooting back down every 5 minutes unless the heat was on ... no fun in the summer.

However, I'm still very puzzled and a bit upset that my random warm idle misfire/stumble is still present. I'm going to start a separate thread on this because even though I've read every thread on the Toyota forums on this subject, I still have no idea where to go next. I replaced all the vacuum lines, replaced the EGR valve with a new OEM one/gaskets on both ends, new throttle body gasket, plugs/wires/cap/rotor OEM before teardown, grounds are perfect, and TPS looks good but I'll probably check that again. Timing is good at 5/12. I think that just leaves with me with fuel related issues. I highly doubt the OEM EGR valve is defective, but I was thinking of blocking it off at the intake side for a test. Could be a good time for a new set of injectors regardless. But I really want to avoid doing a fuel pump, filter etc if I don't have to. Any suggestions here would be very welcome as after 2 months, all I want to do is drive this thing!

So this week I'll be calling a few shops to get my exhaust finished up. It's basically an open LCE header that dumps after the connector pipe right at the driver's door. My test drive was very short and extremely loud, poor neighbors. But clutch and brake systems are good.

Again, any thoughts on the warm idle stumble/miss after all I've checked and replaced would be welcome!
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