Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbtim
Dude, you should have looked at the video we made for this first. It might have made life easier for you getting the diff out. We had the same struggle getting the diff out and back in. Since then, I've pulled a front diff another 4 times and there's two tricks to getting it out and back in easier. #1 is to disconnect the driver side motor mount, and jack up under the oil pan to give you more room. #2 is to disconnect the metal vacuum and breather line from the top of the diff because those metal lines want to hook the power steering lines as you're trying to get the diff out. Once the metal lines are loose, I turn the line assembly 90 degrees so they're out of the way of the power steering lines. If you do those 2 things, the diff comes out without a fight. We listed these two techniques in a pinned comment for the video we made.
I'm surprised how easy you got that stub shaft out. My buddy Fred and I tried the 2 prybar technique that you used and couldn't get the damn thing to budge. I think maybe you had pry bars with thinner ends to get under the gear better. Anyway, good job getting it done.
I put this video in the table of contents.
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I was prepared to do all that as well (remove the motor mount and jack up the engine), but I think having taken off the front diff mounts prior to removal definitely helps and may make it unnecessary.
@
mtbtim
has way more experience with these than I do, so if you're struggling too much with removal, then you should follow his advice.
Also, as for removing the 4 LBJ bolts: I would advise against that for anyone unless you are replacing them. Though it's not stated in the FSM, after reading many instances of these bolts backing out after removal and reinstallation, it's pretty clear to me that they are most likely torqued to yield. This means that they should be replaced with new bolts any time they are removed. Ask
@
AssBurns
how he knows.
