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Old 09-06-2019, 12:34 AM
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Jhalko Jhalko is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Littleton, co
Age: 48
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Real Name: Halko
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Jhalko Jhalko is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Littleton, co
Age: 48
Posts: 3,613
Real Name: Halko
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent_Outside View Post
Running wiring and planning out a slide mount.

I only have 3 rivnuts on hands so I had to order more but here's the plan. I made a cut a board out of 1/2" birch plywood and shaped it slightly to fit snug up against the passenger side trim. I'm going to put 2 or 3 rivnuts in that crossbar to mount th front of the board. I verified its open under neight the bod so I'll put 2 or 3 more in the back along with metal spacers. I'll cut out holes in the styrofoam layer for the spacer to pass through. I cut the insulation off the underside of the trunk carpet where the board will sit to reduce the height a little bit. Right now I'm still waiting on the fridge slide to continue, its held up being shipped out of FL because of hurricane Dorian causing problems. Once the board is mounted I'll line up the slide to have it as far forward and the side as I can without anything hitting anything. When the mounting is figured out I'm going to use pronged t nuts inder the board to mount the slide from the top. I'd trim down the board as much as possible then Bedliner the whole board to keep it protected and waterproof. With this setup when I take it out for ski season its 4 quick bolts to remove the side and no other hassle.

It should right about here, it'll still clear the privacy cover.




I got the wiring almost buttoned up yesterday. Its ran, it's grounded, and I put some temporary terminals on it to just to turn it on so I could verify the wiring. Dometic has a hardware socket kit thats 25 feet of 10 gauge wire, seeing as I'm running one of the smaller fridges and my run of wire is only about 17 feet or so I opted to go with 12 awg. the temporary hook up was to verify the wire is gauged ok to not impede function. As the fridge compressor starts the max voltage drop on startup is right around .28 volts, that'll work fine. 0.0 is ideal but not worth running like 6 or 8 awg. The performance will be just fine, the one potential concern is the battery protection could kick in earlier if it thinks the battery is lower than it is because of a voltage drop. But, I have everything aftermarket running through a low voltage disconnect right at the second battery so I don't need to utilize the fridges internal battery protection.

I realize I didn't take many pictures, I'll try to grab a few more today, especially if I finish up the wiring.
Fridge seems small for a family of three and a case of beer. Just sayin’.
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2011 Silver LE, 3rd row, 285 GY Duratracs, Elka remote with adjusters/Icon Overland springs, SPC UCA's, RCI skids, Shrockworks step slider with OE Trail rockers, CBI rear bumper, Indel B fridge, SPOD, and more...

Build link:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-ge...el-thread.html
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