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Elite Member
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Jose, California
Age: 58
Posts: 5,278
Real Name: Tim
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Elite Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Jose, California
Age: 58
Posts: 5,278
Real Name: Tim
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I wouldn't waste money on an alignment unless you have obvious play in your balljoints and there's a possibility the last alignment was done with the balljoints in this condition. When you replace the balljoints, nothing is going to change with the alignment. It's when you replace tie rods, LCA (Lower Control Arm) bushings, install a lift that you should do an alignment afterward.
You're wheel wobble is most likely just due to wheel balancing. Have a reputable shop check the balancing for you.
The thing to do at the same time would be LCA bushings. But, if the rig is driving fine, don't mess with them until you have to. You could also do inner and outer tie rods if you found they were worn out. Steering rack bushings is another consideration along with sway bar bushings. And, the list goes on....
With the front wheels off the ground, check for wheel bearing play by grabbing the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and push with one hand while pulling with the other feeling for any play. If there's any detectable play, you're wheel bearings should be replaced.
When you grab the wheel at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions, pushing and pulling back and forth, you can feel for tie rod and steering rack play. The wheel is going to move but you're feeling for a looseness/play or popping. You can also manually grab the outer tie rod connection at the balljoint and push and pull on it trying to detect any play in the joint. If there's play, replace it.
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Last edited by mtbtim; 10-27-2019 at 09:23 PM.
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