Good call. I simply got 2 stainless bolts that had the same thread pattern, pumped a little clear silicone into the holes and then installed the screws. After cutting the rear plate light power wire it looks normal.

[/QUOTE]-The wheel studs that come with the carrier are 1/2 threads, not 12mmx1.5 like ours. This totally makes sense due to the carrier being originally designed for Jeeps, but I didn't like having to have separate sets of lug nuts. I ordered 3 studs from Rock Auto (PN: PTC 97192) for .89 each and replaced the 1/2 ones.[/QUOTE]

How did this work for you? I thought about the same but the 1/2x20 lugs all showed a larger diameter where the knurling is so I wasn't sure how the 12mm logs would stay in place.


[/QUOTE]-I haven't wired my LED's in yet, but since they are only 24w total for both (2A), I'm just going to tap into the center pin of the 7-pin trailer harness so they come on with the vehicle reverse lights.[/QUOTE]

Good call, 8 was wondering but this might solve my problems.

[/QUOTE]-Finally (and I think they have already fixed some of these issues), the license plate bracket is an absolute BEAR to take off if you're pulling the wheel off. You have to remove the 2 bolts for the plate, then the 2 vertical bolts for the whole assembly (which I believe they're using wing nuts now), Then the two bolts for the plate bracket, then pull the LED off so the plate bracket comes through the hub. Way too many steps, and if I'm on a trail or in the middle of the night? That's really going to suck. I would have preferred to see a weatherproof connector that allows you to remove the plate/LED assembly completely before removing the wheel.[/QUOTE]

Agreed with too many steps. They did change to 1 wing nut. I decided to use 1x 6 socket Weatherpak plug. Once the camera mount gets remedied I'll wire it up so I can unplug 1 plug in and everything is ready to pull apart.