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Old 01-05-2020, 03:31 AM
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T4Rchadly T4Rchadly is offline
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
T4Rchadly is just really nice T4Rchadly is just really nice T4Rchadly is just really nice T4Rchadly is just really nice
T4Rchadly T4Rchadly is offline
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T4Rchadly's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
T4Rchadly is just really nice T4Rchadly is just really nice T4Rchadly is just really nice T4Rchadly is just really nice
here comes another update on the RADRNR. i'll start off with the maintenance.

so i had started a thread about me having an extended crank intermittently happening.. well, being a tech i started playing detective but without spending TOO much time on it :wink: I noticed since winter, my fuel economy has plummeted from 250 a tank straight to 180/90 (i drive like a grandma and my driving style/habits have not changed). i realize i'm in alaska and the state puts out a winter blend for gasoline vehicles (i'm assuming diesel also). second, it started happening almost every time i drive and let it sit for 15 minutes- couple hours. when try to start now, i now hear a big combustion in my right bank and then seems to flood out. when it starts, black smoke (rich fuel) comes out momentarily and then proceeds to be normal. it all came to me like a brick and knew my injectors were getting stuck upon heat up and flooding out the vehicle. i replaced the injectors for upgraded LCE injectors, new OEM intake gaskets, fuel crush washers, and went to an O-style throttle body gaskets versus the D-style. i now have no long crank, and have been getting great fuel economy and power feels a lot more linear than before. didn't get any pictures during the swap unfortunately but one injector in the right bank was very discolored towards all other injectors.
IMG_1433

I had also installed brand new OEM front wheel bearings with OEM seals. i also happened to weld on total chaos knuckle gussets. didn't get any pictures as it was a job and a half to do and i wasn't in the best mood at the time..

lastly i got rid of my rear diff leak by installing a new pinion seal. here's the part number. just remove the 27(?)mm bolt, rip the seal out and set the new one. put the nut back to the same exact spot of removal (OEM paint pen is used from factory, just match it back to same spot) and good as new.
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IMG_2711

NEXT
i was tired of only using the light cannons, something had to be done with it. i had tiny rigid pods on my CBI ditch bracket but were not hooked up and with it being completely dark in the winter time by 4:00 i wasn't having it anymore. i had to come up with a switch system that isn't cluttered, easily accessible, and looks great. I ordered a Spod bantam system to manager all my accessory outputs and tried looking for a writeup on the 3rd gen 4runners and found NOTHING.. great, no help and knowing 3rd gen 4runners don't have a ton of engine bay space i knew it wasn't going to be awesome finding a spot. luckily i came up with this and has worked great for me so far:
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i got the 36" length power cable version and bolted it to the top of the fuse block. i then cut the power cable to remove engine bay clutter and easy access to open the fuse block if need-be. i routed the cat-5 cable in between the charcoal canister and wheel tub, through the firewall, and up the A pillar. i then came up with a ram mount bracket and mounted it up to the a pillar and bam, that is all good. ideally it would've been best to buth the unit inside the vehicle but i don't plan on taking my truck through deep water crossings. also easy field repair. i then get excited, hit the switch to the rigid pods ready to light the entire night up and found a Big problem. these puppies ARE WEAK! fixed that immediately with some baja designs XL80 pods. MUCH BETTER. the output is amazing.
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Last edited by T4Rchadly; 01-05-2020 at 03:56 AM.
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