Edit, on second thought you say no crank, it should still crank with a bad coil, missed that on my first skim through. If it doesn't die on its own and is strictly limited to a starting issue you should consider rewiring your start circuit, Pick up this thread from here -
Gevo's 91 4Runner Build Thread - Page 19 - YotaTech Forums O2, coolant temp etc are irrelevant to anything other than proper running after start and closed loop mode is entered
4. INSPECT PRIMARY COIL RESISTANCE
Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between
the positive (+) and negative (–) terminals.
Primary coil resistance (Cold):
0.36–0.55
Primary coil resistance (Hot):
0.45–0.660
If the resistance is not as specified, replace the igni–
tion coil
5. INSPECT SECONDARY COIL RESISTANCE
Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between
the positive (+) terminal and high–tension terminal.
Secondary coil resistance (Cold):
9.0 – 15.4 k
Secondary coil resistance (Hot):
11.4 – 18.1 k
If the resistance is not as specified, replace the igni–
tion coil.
Distributor check is attached as image. There's also a whole section (pages, too long, not copied) about the plug wires, which can lead to coil failure. Not mentioned here in the FSM is the "tap" test for testing the igniter. I can't remember how to do it off the top of my head, Google should know though.
