Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumbo
Regards to repair, the only concern I would really have is running the master dry, I understand the bleeding procedure is a bit more complicated when you introduce air into the master.
At least that is what I gathered from when I did my brake job & upgrades.
On a side note: I hope I never have to experience a loss of brake. Very sketchy.
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As I posted above, my driver's hardline completely broke at the caliper, after 2 strokes of the brake pedal I had no brakes what so ever, the reservoir for the front was completely empty but not from the 2 strokes but the rest drain out via gravity, after I replace the broken line I only bleed that brake line with the engine off until no air came out, I had a full pedal after that, that was over 3 years ago and my brakes are still good, as long as you don't get air into the ABS valves it's just basic brake bleeding, to get air into the ABS valves the ABS system would have to activate with the reservoir being empty.
I would advise everyone to learn how to stop as I described in my last post, once you learn how to do that you will be able to stop as long as you're not following to close and can think quickly, as I mentioned I learn that many years ago and it's second nature to me to do it as I described if my brake fail, I have use it many times in my younger days in older vehicles, the downshifting at once is the key at the right time and then go to the parking brake.
