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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 1,074
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 1,074
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If only the rear mount on the front diff used a bolt through the crossmember, it would by FAR FAR FAR easier to replace. But it has a stud that reaches down through the crossmember, with a big goofy nut holding it in place underneath. That stud is what makes 90% of the hassle.
It is possible to remove and replace with the motor in place (I've done it), but the 'extra' work involved in raising the motor up is WELL WORTH IT.
I tried unbolting the mount bracket from the diff and installing the mount, then the diff, but that was just about as hard to get those bolts back in place and tightened. Not a good approach. Jack that motor up and retain some amount of your sanity.
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'99 Highlander 5-spd manual e-locker no-running-board
SS 3" suspension lift/1" body lift/33" tires/'Snowflake' TRD Taco wheels/231mm Tundra brakes/bumpers/armor/sliders/winch/Sherpa Matterhorn rack
Manual front hubs, NWF Eco-crawler transfer case doubler, second gas tank
Last edited by JohnMc; 02-07-2020 at 12:50 PM.
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