Quote:
Originally Posted by anormalflame
Got the correct manual now from a fellow member. It wasn't 1A. It's 1J.
1. Truck wouldn't start. Jumped it off.
2. Loaned to brother. Returned with dome fuse blown, door locks not working, and turn signals not working. Tried to swap 15a dome fuse out, but it blew. I had to go somewhere for a photography job so I drove it anyway. Drove fine.
3. Came home to try to figure this out. Drove it in the garage. I swapped fuses - the 10a AC, 10a RR HTR, 10a Head (RH), 10a Head (LH), all under the hood and the ACC (inside truck) after using a test light. Now only the 10a AC fuse lights up using a test light out of that cluster of 10a fuses in that middle section of fuses under the hood. They aren't blown, the test light just doesn't illuminate on either side. Tried swapping dome fuses but they kept blowing again.
4. I began pulling the connectors behind the fuse box inside the truck. Narrowed it down to one connector which I now know is the 1J. I used my test light poking inside each slot for the wires on that connector. On one of them on the left side I heard the relay click under the hood as the test light lit up. There was one on the right side that made the test light illuminate, but it was very dim. Not sure what that means.
5. Truck would crank but not start.
6. I swapped the 100 ALT fusible link because it appeared to be blown, but I couldn't really tell for sure due to lack of visibility through the plastic. Also because other T4R.org members had theirs blown while diagnosing similar issues. Just figured what the hell. I'll swap it.
7. Here we are.
Brother got the rig running fine... So did I. It only stopped running after pulling into the garage to diagnose.
I only had to swap the other fuses once. Sorry I meant fuse not fuses.
Thanks for your help.
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Not sure why your 10A RR HTR fuse wouldn't have power unless somethings not connected under the relay box, or bad connection.