Yeah, for the steering I was able to get my hands on the steering clevises from camburg a bit early. They’re set up for a 3/4” heim. The tie rod itself is 1.125x0.219 tubing so it has a 11/16” id and is ideal for running a 3/4-16 tap down. I’ve done it on several things in the past, including my panhard bar. On the ball joint ear I drilled the taper out to 5/8”, added the double shear tab, wrapped the backside to shield it from the rotor, and shanked the bolt to land the shoulder in the heavy part of the ball joint.

The tie rods are tapped left and right hand thread for adjustment but it means that one revolution is 1/8” on the tie rod length so alignment is actually a bit of a pain in the ass. I don’t do more than a 1/4 turn at a time. Also the clevis fits inside the factory steering boot so the rack is still sealed up.





On the LCA I was in the process of extending a set for that other 4Runner because every 4Runner I had been around with TC uppers and any lift had trouble getting negative or even 0° camber. That set I did by shifting the forged end out further in the boxed arm but as I was digging into them I realized that the factory adjustment cams have a 19mm od and there is a multitude of misalignment spacers with 3/4 id available for 1” sphericals. I mocked up the cups with weld slugs spaced correctly with dom tubing in the jig and cut off the outer half of the factory bushing hole. Welded the cups in place and then wrapped them from the top of the arm around the cup to the bottom of the arm with 3/16 (overkill). while I was at it I welded an extra plate on the bottom of the arm.


The jig actually used a factory taper ball for the ball joint end to maintain the angle and position was maintained because as it turns out the flats on either side of the arm end fit directly inside 2x2x3/16 square tubing which allowed me to cut the bushing sleeves without loosing position.


I do all this in a dirt driveway and the garage is full of crap thats not mine so things get rusty around here quick.