View Single Post
Old 04-06-2020, 02:27 PM
thennen's Avatar
thennen thennen is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,596
thennen is a splendid one to behold thennen is a splendid one to behold thennen is a splendid one to behold thennen is a splendid one to behold thennen is a splendid one to behold thennen is a splendid one to behold thennen is a splendid one to behold thennen is a splendid one to behold
thennen thennen is offline
Senior Member
thennen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,596
thennen is a splendid one to behold thennen is a splendid one to behold thennen is a splendid one to behold thennen is a splendid one to behold thennen is a splendid one to behold thennen is a splendid one to behold thennen is a splendid one to behold thennen is a splendid one to behold
Quote:
Originally Posted by VB.TRD.Pro View Post
Can't say we've ever done what you're doing with replacing legacy piping in the entire home but we have owned multiple properties with different types of piping. By far Pex-A (uponor) has been the least problematic. Copper is okay but can be noisier plus you can't run RO water through it because it'll leach and eventually develop pinhole leaks. Pex-A is much more flexible and can be contorted to do many things copper can't come close to doing so it'll save some $ in labor.

If you plan on working on the plumbing after the fact, in my opinion Pex-A is more flexible and fool proof compared to the B variety but requires a special tool. The one made by Milwaukee is the best one out when I last checked a year ago because it also rotates which evenly dilates the pipe to fit around the fittings. It will eventually shrink back to its original diameter and that force is what provides the clamping force so it's hard to screw that up. PEX B is a crimp system, more commonly available at big box stores but more potential for errors and leaks if not done correctly. All of the pro plumbers I know always use Uponor products. There are many videos on YouTube that may help you get familiarized with the two to form your own conclusions.

For softeners we've always run 3M softeners based on the Clack WS heads. 3M costs a little more compared to the build your own kits which some will tell you are there same which is mostly true. Parts are plentiful for Clack based systems but I'm a 3M fanboy and all of their products are certified with scientific data and stats easily accessible for review. No fluff or snake oil marketing. What sets them apart is everytime I've had questions about their products, I call them direct and will get one of their product engineers on the line who know the product inside and out; not some level 1 call center person who may be referencing a script. When you need detailed technical info, you can get it with one call in a matter of 5 minutes.

Don't know the size of your home or family but we tend to pay a little more to buy the larger commercial grade units to cut down on the regen cycles. We've purchased two 2 cubic feet 3m-wts200 units over the past 4 years for two different properties and they're rock solid. We've been on city water 15 gpg hardness and now about 7gpg. We get about 3-3.5 weeks between regen cycles with about 100 gallons of water usage per day. I can load the salt tank with 120 lbs and be good for 12-16 months. If anything, get your water tested for hardness level and see if there are any other treatments or unique media needed since you are on well water.

Good luck with the project. Even with PEX it's not an easy job. Sheetrock repair is easy if that's what you've got with a house built in the 1960s. If plaster, might get a little messy. Would love to hear the results so keep us posted.
Thanks for the valuable input.

I'm having this job done, and it will be Pex. In fact, just had the failed pressure tank replaced Friday and relocated from the crawlspace to the first floor (the first step of the project). Thrilled about that - I replaced the pressure tank maybe 15 years ago, and doing any plumbing work in the crawl space is a PITA. What I didn't notice last time: previous owner had run the incoming line from the well to the softener (maybe 30 feet), then 30 feet back to the pressure tank, then to the house. Before I bought the house, that softener had been removed, so there were just pipes that recently developed a leak and rusted out my furnace. Had the furnace replaced a month ago.

I'll ask the plumbing company about 3M softeners. I'll pay more for better quality every time if I can afford it. Plus, the ability to contact a sentient human being for help carries value by itself.

My home is 1600 square feet, bath and a half, family of 5. Never measured water usage.
thennen is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
 
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:33 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
***This site is an unofficial Toyota site, and is not officially endorsed, supported, authorized by or affiliated with Toyota. All company, product, or service names references in this web site are used for identification purposes only and may be trademarks of their respective owners. The Toyota name, marks, designs and logos, as well as Toyota model names, are registered trademarks of Toyota Motor Corporation***Ad Management plugin by RedTyger
 
Copyright © 2020