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Old 04-20-2020, 06:19 PM
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gamefreakgc gamefreakgc is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
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Real Name: Jerod
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gamefreakgc gamefreakgc is offline
Elite Member
gamefreakgc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Age: 36
Posts: 7,337
Real Name: Jerod
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot View Post
UPDATE: I am officially a member of the Gremlin Hunting Squad
Today I went through the effort of replacing my knock sensors AND harness together (OEM set) in hopes that this CEL would go away, but alas, P0325 came up almost immediately after 5 hours of work - I'd say within 60 seconds of driving, or around that (and idling for maybe 5 mins prior as I cleaned up the garage.) The harness is not pinched and the sensors were tested prior to installation to confirm no continuity, which would otherwise signal a short. The sensors were tightened down by hand, but not to the ~30lb spec; could this be an issue? I'm not sure what else would be.
I'm nearly at my wits end chasing this gremlin - does anybody have an idea as to what i should try next? Electronics are NOT my forte, so any help at all is appreciated. These 5VZ's are not particularly enjoyable to take apart, so I'd prefer to do it only once more and not twice

Edit: When I took off the old sensors one of them was shot, however it got mixed up on the garage floor before testing and it's unclear if it coincided with the bank 1 code.
When you say tightened by hand, you mean you put them in hand tight, or just made your best guess at 30 lbft? I also did a best guess since I couldn't get my torque wrench in the with the water pipe in the way. If you did them hand tight though, they will wiggle loose due to heat cycles.

There's only 3 parts to check from the FSM:
  1. The sensors
  2. The wiring
  3. The ECU

You've done the sensor and half the wiring. Time to test for resistance on the harness from the pigtail connector to the ECU, and possibly swap your ECU if you can. I had bought a replacement ECU just in case I had to go that route, was around $70 used on Ebay if that helps at all. Make sure you pull yours to get the EXACT model number, each year had different model numbers. If you have a smart key or key fobs you might have to get it reprogrammed to start though.

You can also de-pin the pigtail male connector and swap the wires around. If the code then jumps to the other sensor, it's most likely a sensor issue. If the code stays the same, it's most likely a wiring issue on the ECU end of things.

Hope that helps.
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'98 4Runner SR5 - 4x4 JDM 5VZ-FE Supercharged - 249K miles.
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