Quote:
Originally Posted by P_nlsn
Dash/Instrument Cluster LED swap to red
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Recently finished up my interior LED swap! It looks amazing in person! I just used some left over red LED's and resistors that my brother had from doing his interior, but for the instrument cluster, I had to buy some SMD's
I just removed the stock "twist-in" bulb, and soldered the new LED's, along with a resistor, directly onto the boards/prongs
I will admit, it does have some hot spots/dim spots in the clock/climate control switches because the spread of the lights I had isn't perfect, but it still looks great
I started with just the driver window backlight. I can't remember what voltage the circuit used, but it might've been 12v (be sure and check for you're self though)
And then the climate control, clock, and clock button backlights. Now, I'm pretty sure I remember the circuit being 6v, but I can't say for sure because I didn't write it down like the others.
The Switches took some engineering to make everything fit, but it all worked out ok. All the stock switches took 12v
-The Center Diff Lock switch has the positive on the outermost side
-The DAC switch also has the positive on the outermost side
-The 4WD selector has the positive on the bottom-most side (also the longer prong)
-And the Rear Window Switch has the positive on the shortest prong
Next up was the instrument cluster and steering wheel controls
It's just a bunch of SMD's - I used
these LED's
If you're wondering what LED's do what and stuff - here's what I found:
-All the SMD's get 2v
-Every LED is labeled on the circuit board
(Yes, I know positives are marked, but to make it easier to identify, I note which side too)
RPM Backlight
-Bottom Light
-LED 56
-Positive = Right side
-Top Light
-LED 58
-Positive = Right side
RPM Needle
-Bottom Light
-LED 60
-Positive = Bottom
-Top Light
-LED 59
-Positive = Right side
Odometer Backlight
-LED 57
-Positive = Top
Speedometer Needle/Backlight
-Left Light
-LED 53
-Positive = Bottom
-Top Light
-LED 71
-Positive = Right side
-Right Light
-Led 54
-Positive = Bottom
Gas/Temp Gauge Backlight
-Bottom Light
-LED 55
-Positive = Top
-Top Light
-LED 61
-Positive = Bottom
-Middle Light
-LED 72
-Positive = Bottom
Gas Gauge Needle
-LED 62
-Positive = Bottom
Temp Gauge Needle
-LED 63
-Positive = Bottom
I also changed the cup holder light and the shifter light too, just so they matched
It was easy to do, you just twist out the old light assembly, then I popped the old light out and stuck the prongs of the new LED behind the metal contact plates in the socket. I used hot glue to ensure it stayed in place and didn't pop out. Since the LED takes less voltage than the circuit gives, I spliced a resistor into to the wires and covered it with heat shrink
Lastly, my glove box light was already burned out, so I went ahead and made it red too
I used a pretty similar technique as what I did with the cup holder light. I Soldered the resistor to the LED, then shoved the prongs behind the metal contact plates, then hot glued it down and bent it down so it'd fit inside the casing
One last note - Be sure the dimmer control knob is plugged in when you go to test your lights. I wasn't thinking about this when I went to test my newly installed lights, and most of them didn't come on. Practically every dash light get's its power through this knob, so don't be dumb like me and freak out over nothing