Shortly after I purchased mine in the summer of 2018 with 235K the HG let go and thus a rebuild was in order. So I installed MLS gaskets lapped the deck and heads and loaded the heads with ARP head studs. Putting in a set of DT headers and punching out the exhaust to 2-1/2" with a set of FlowMaster mufflers is what I did on mine. I also installed the Summit racing version of the K&N FIPK with a custom made aluminum air box to keep it sucking cold air for the intake. I port matched the entire engine when I did the rebuild and opened up the heads a bit and the intake as well as the plenum. The OEM oil pump pressure at idle is like 10PSI and was below the first line before the rebuild even with a fresh oil change. So when I went through the oil pump I added a washer to the pressure relief spring plunger and I run 20W-50 oil. The output from the oil pump goes straight into the oil filter so I remote mounted that inside the front wheel well and run a 40 micron Wix 51515R filter. The oil pressure gauge never goes below the first line and usually hovers between the two upper lines when its buzzing along and warmed up. I'm running the stock 4.56:1 gearing with 31's and it will pull 85 MPH all day long and easily pull to 90 MPH at around 4K in 5th gear. I struggle to get 200 miles out of a tank full. But that is usually because I am often doing more than the basic speed on the freeway. Even with a Marlin Crawler short throw shifter the 3VZ-E is never going to win any dead start drag race but once I get it buzzing up over 3,500 RPM the roll-on is decent. So knocking it back and forth from 4th to 5th gear is a lot of fun! The EGR delete seems like it would help with getting that ruddy tube out of the plenum for a bit more air flow in there. But I haven't done that yet!...