This can be a tough repair/mod to do but the end results will be pretty good if you pay attention and of course read as much as you can. I set this up as a dedicated write-up and perhaps it will get sticky status. The cracked manifolds aren't going anywhere on the v8 engines plus headers are just cool.

Needed tools and supplies:

-Swivel socket and two 12" extensions at least. I wish I would have had more in 1/2" but 3/8" works fairly well. Clearances are at a premium.
-Box wrenches
-Long shaft wrenches (ratcheting or standard end)
-Impac with swivel, extensions, deep and shallow sockets
-Swivel head ratchets with deep and standard sockets, shallow might make some things easier but not necessary.
-Breaker bar, not too long but be careful pulling the studs, I estimate its about 75lbs on them but I will look it up for installation. Warning not to bust the stud off in the head again
-Torque wrench, for installation....this is a must to seat the gasket properly. Two torturing sessions are necessary. One week apart.
-2 bottles of your favorite penetrating oil (snapped off bolts in the head is absolutely a terrible idea, you would have to pull the head if you mess it up)
-Rags, many or all of them
-jack - not the stocker.
-2 jack stands of non harbor freight brand
-good shop light
02 sensor sockets or 7/8" wrench
-Torx sockets(I had to order these)
-2x4 wood(16" but that may differ with your jack, explained later)
-safety glasses, lots of rust flakes will come out or dirt while you're down there. Don't get that crap in your eyes.
-deep socket bolt extractors

For the welding:
-tig or mig welder, I'm fluxing it personally (this method worked very well actually. I use a Hobart 140 but I am not sure that a flux only machine would have the ooomph to get the job done. There's only one way to find out but please get a test pipe and play with the welding wire before going at it on expensive headers)
-stainless 304 wire or rods
-triangle magnets (at least 4)
-stainless wire brush
-paint marker


New hardware:
-Exhaust manifold botl/stud set (I went with level 8, there is also titanium and also arp studs you can get)
-Exhaust collector donut gasket
-A couple of donut gaskets for the cat to ypipe
-New exhaust studs if you snap one
-nickel anti-seize

You need to remove the airbox completely to give you access the needed space.

Completely remove the ypipe first as you will need all the space you can get. Impac comes in handy busting this. Just get the studs out and toss it. I highly recommend the urd ypipe. Its well made and the elimination of flow impediment will assist with the hp/tq gains.

Take the tires off and get the runner up on stands. You will be spending a lot of time on your back, knees, crouching, etc. The higher the better but I only lifted mine high enough to get the tires off the ground since I have a lift and larger tires. I use a set of 12t jack stands because of the height. Take down the floppy engine splash guards as this is how you will be accessing a lot of the bolts.

Organize your parts! I have a makeshift table that I fill with bolts sitting in or on the parts I have to remove.

Now spray down all of the bolts with ludicrous amounts of penetrating oil. The more time you can get them to soak the better. You can work on the heat guards but you won't be able to remove them till the next step. You also need to spray the engine mounts on the frame side! Those can be a real bear and since they are specialty bolts I'm sure Toyota charges a mint for them.

Close down the garage and let them soak overnight. There are some bolts you won't be able to spray easily without getting the heat guards out of the way so do what you can and then shut er down.

Remove the oil dipstick and tube. It bolts to the manifold.

Loosen the engine mount bolts on the driver side or passenger side and remove them on the other. This will give you the flexibility of allowing the opposite side to tilt while the other side lifts.
You will need a piece of 2x4 about 12 to 16 inches long to get the engine lifted enough to make access easier for the studs.

Now its just down to getting everything off. You can only do one side at a time unless you have 2 jacks and two pieces of wood. Don't twist too hard. If it isn't giving put about 65lbs of pressure on and then spray with more penetrating lube. Patience is your friend. NE types might need 3 or 4 bottles of penetrating lube. Just keep working it with head, oil, until it pops loose without excessive pressure. Not gonna warn you again. You've heard the safety brief 3 times now.

To be continued......


Got started on the headers. Whew its tight spaces in there so hardly any pictures. All I gotta say is pb blaster or deep creep those bolts multiple times. I don't have a huge rust issue but man some of those bolts are tough. The motor mounts and studs need soaking overnight because I ain't busting a stud.

I had to stop today on the second day as the studs underneath needed the heat shields out so I could spray them liberally with deep creep. I took some pictures to illustrate exactly what I'm talking about. Not an easy project to undertake but this is why the shops are charging so much to install.

I'm happy so far with the progress.

Coming soon is the pics and welding of the shorties to the stock cats and reinstallation of everything. Ill break everything down in the coming posts. Ask any questions and I will do my best to answer. I'm working my way through it but I am a guy in the garage.

Stock Y-pipe versus URD Y-pipe


Airbox and other items removed. Tape your removed connections so you don't forget one.


Just a picture of clearance in there


Jack with piece of wood. 16" worked well for me. 2x4 probably works best but on the driver side you'll have to play with it for it to work.


More of the clearance nightmare


Engine Bolts! Do NOT LOSE THESE. Just sayin


Heat Shields finally came off. If you twist off the bolts holding them....never fear. You'll not be using them again and the bolts go into the manifold so crank away.


After the heat shield is gone on the Passenger side.