So just in case you thought rebound adjustment on 8100 cannot be any worse than it is on the rear pax, wait till you try the rear driver!

My 1/4in ratcheting stubby with the hex works well on pax side, but its head is too big for the driver side. And in both cases, a shorter tool would be better.

Bilstein say they are working on a knob. That will have to be a tiny little knob because there is very little room between the adjuster and the main shock tube.

EDIT: ok, so modifying an L hex did not work because of hose clearance duh. What does work is to use a hex into an adaptor and then into a flexible screw driver. That makes it pretty easy. Of course, now you need to mark the screwdriver so you know when you made one full turn. Because nothing is really easy when it comes to adjusting the 8100s, the screwdriver does not work as well on the pax side but it still works. Fit is worse but possible.

I modified the Icon 2.0 boots to fit the 8100. It is pretty easy to do with the lower end loose so crap goes out. Bilstein says there is no need for boots but I would rather be safe than sorry.

When installing the driver side, I cut some plastic off the 4R's splash guards or whatever it is called, as it seemed it might rub on the hose.

EDIT:
With 1" rear Eibach spring and a completely empty cargo area, down travel is exactly 5.5" on the pax side. The driver side rear sits 1/4" lower at rest. Looks like there is 4.5" to bump stop.