(Continued)

More weight reduction:



The final shape:



Check clearance. IMPORTANT! Turn the steering wheel lock to lock at full bump and verify it clears through the entire range. It will likely rub the frame at full turn.







That does it for the cutting. Next up, patch it all up!

Patching the Driver Side:

Start by welding in the 1/8" rod to create a support structure where you plan to join the sheet metal. I followed the inner support line where it naturally seemed to go.





Create your template. I used a beer box and a sharp exacto knife to trace it out.



Translate the template to your sheet steel. I used a jig saw to cut the sheet, its not great but it works... a bench top band saw would be much better IMO.

Tack it into place, hammering it to shape as you go.



My first welds in years. They were not great, but they did the job.



First piece welded in:



Verified clearance. I could fit a finger between the tire and the steel at full turn.



I switched gears and moved to the inside piece next. This will help drive the shape of the tub. Jack the tire all the way up and turn it to full lock. Bend your rod to match the curve of the tire, cut to length and tack into place:



Tacked into place:



View from inside at full turn:





Fully welded:



Add the final support rod. Same process as the previous one. Jack tire up, bend rod to match tire radius, tack into place with adequate clearance from the tire.



Beer box template:



My cutting apparatus (slightly sketchy):



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