Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: East Mountains, NM
Posts: 1,210
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: East Mountains, NM
Posts: 1,210
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The rack swap started yesterday and going as well as could be expected. I realized that the rack comes out from the front, not from the hole in the driver side of the chassis. The plan for today is to drop the front diff just enough to pull out the rack. Remove all hard pipes that have hoses attach to them and take them to a hydraulic hose shop to have replacement hoses built and attached.
Removing the front sway bar gains you a TON of room and should be done as it takes five min.
One thing to note, the two long bolts that keeps the rack to the front of the chassis has special nuts that should NOT be spun. These nuts have four serration that dig into the metal they live on and if you spin them, you ruin these "biting edges". You have to turn only the bolt which is a PITA to get to. Upon re-assembly, I'm going to insert the bolt upside down so that the nuts are on top. This way, you can easily torque the bolt heads from down below. I'm not sure why Toyota did this in a such a f'ed up orientation.
I bought two OEM tie rod ends and will attach the pass side to the new rebuilt (rackdoctor) rack on the ground before inserting. As stated in multiple threads and vids, removal of the driver side inner tie rod end is required. You don't have to separate the outer from the inner tie rod end but you can remove the whole shebang as one to facilitate the removal of the rack.
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2003 Sport V8 Icon 2" rear, Bilstein 6112 front with 700# king springs, Gibson cat back, Magnaflow cross pipe. OBA, DIY sliders, etc
1996 FZJ80 landcruiser with whole bunch of stuff, including a Turbo.
1997 4Runner SR5 - daughter's ride, slowly getting built up
Last edited by alia176; 09-21-2021 at 09:08 AM.
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