2/19/2022 201314 miles
-Removed Yakima roof rack rails (had to buy a replacement key to unlock it $35)
-Installed some OEM roof rack delete rails and cleaned the dirt/debris off the top. Added some silicone around the holes/threads for the roof rack rail fasteners. OEM roof rack delete rails $40 and silicone $10.
-Replaced the melted passenger inner tie rod boot that I melted last alignment. Set toe again. Moog K100183 $15
-Ordered/cut 2 replacement keys from Toyota dealership next door. 90999-00185 $15
-Replaced defrost 90010-01041 $5 and rear window 90010-01042 $5 bulbs. Replaced HVAC unit bulbs 90010-05152 $20. The off brand ac switch I bought does not want to go on there at all. I think I'll have to order OEM for that.

I had to reheat the passenger locknut again in order to get it to loosen. I made sure that I cooled it off this time before I tried installing the new inner tie rod boot! Luckily the Moog K100183 comes with 2 boots so I had 2 chances to get one of them on without melting. Luckily I only needed one shot!

Ordered/cut 2 replacement keys at the Toyota dealership next door 90999-00185. That part number is for a plastic handled key without the transponder chip. I'm not a fan of the all metal keys. The dealership cut the keys off the VIN and they were close, but the tumbler key closest to the tip was out instead of in and wouldn't work in the ignition but would work in the door. They traced my current key onto the two new keys and now I have 3 working ignition keys. I might try taking one of the keys and modifying it to only work in the door and hide it on the vehicle somewhere in case I lock myself out.

I drove an hour each way a few weeks ago to the closest Yakima dealer that had a full set of keys in order to buy the key I needed to unlock the Yakima roof bars to remove them. I'm sure they would have been functional, but to me they were just loud. All the wind noise they made above 45 mph was enough to make me think I had a bad wheel bearing when I was driving it after I got the exhaust semi fixed. Talk about loud! I went ahead and remove the OEM roof rack rails and support bars and installed some OEM roof rack delete rails making sure to silicone the retainer holes/threads to prevent water leaks. I had to track down a leak from there on my last 4Runner which was not fun to say the least. There's some color fading and hard lines left from the OEM roof rack rails/supports, but I'm not tall enough to see them all the time so I'm not gonna worry about it.

Took another look underneath at my current leaks and noticed that I have either a transmission output shaft seal leak or a transfer case input shaft seal leak. I'm leaning more towards it being the transmission side due to the "adventure" it had before I bought it.

I'm still debating buying a replacement transmission or trying to have the crack repaired. I suffer from "might as well" automotive condition where I want to replace things that may not technically need replacing because I'm already there. The longer it takes to get to where I'm at the more likely I am to preventatively replace a part.

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