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Old 08-01-2022, 12:59 PM
4Rums 4Rums is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 118
4Rums will become famous soon enough
4Rums 4Rums is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 118
4Rums will become famous soon enough
Here is some info and diagrams that should help bypassing the JBL components. There are two files attached. One of the schematics has the wiring diagram for the JBL sound system. In this diagram you fill find the flow of the wiring through different connectors in the car. It shows the connector name, the color of the wires, and which pin number they are assigned in the connector.

The other diagram has the actual location of the connectors in the car and the pin layout (with pin numbers and position) of each connector. If you look at the diagrams, you will see that all the speaker wires (except the passenger rear door) flow through the GN1 or GN2 connectors, which are located behind the passenger kick panel. The passenger rear door connector, JN1, is located below the B pillar. I couldn't find this diagram but it's easy to locate once you remove the trim.

When I upgraded the audio system, I replaced/bypassed all the JBL components (Head Unit, Amp, Speakers). I installed a new head unit and a DSP/amplifier under the passenger seat. I ran speaker wire from the amp to the kick panel connectors (and below the B pillar for the passenger rear door) and that was pretty much it as far as wiring for the speakers. I didn't have to run new wires all the way to any of the speakers and deal with the door jams. I also replaced the subwoofer but used the existing OEM enclosure and ran a new line from under the seat to the enclosure.

I'd suggest that you get a speaker test tone generator and insert the leads into the connector pins to test the connectivity to each speaker. It will make things a lot easier to sort out and safer.

Any other questions, feel free to ask.

Last edited by 4Rums; 08-01-2022 at 07:34 PM.
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