On the road to replacing my brake lines, so far replaced both of the rear lines and now I have to deal with the ones running above the gas tank, for those who've done it in their driveway, any advice? I did read over y=mx+b's build thread and he had to replace those lines, one tip he gave was loosening the gas tank strap bolts and that may give enough clearance without having to drop the whole tank. I plan on replacing the straps during the same time (also read the sticky on that). Wanted to see if there were any other good tips before I tackle it.

And does anyone know why Toyota ended up stopping the rubber coating right near the end of the brake line? This is where it ends up failing since the bare steel is exposed, kind of sucks since the rest of the line is likely fine. My only guess is that they needed to in order to remove the fitting down the road since it can't slide over the coating (if this is the case, seems like thinner material might have been possible/better to use)

For those who may end up bending their own brake lines, this is what I used

3/16" Nickel Copper Brake Tubing

Amazon.com: The Stop Shop 25 Ft. Roll / Coil of 3/16" (.028" Wall) Copper Nickel Brake Line Tubing : Automotive

Invert Flare Fittings Stainless Steel (Metric 10 x 1mm)

Amazon.com: The Stop Shop Stainless Steel Metric Brake Line Invert Flare Fitting for 3/16" Tube. 10 x 1 mm (Pack of 10) : Automotive


Titan 51535 3/16" Double Flaring Tool (Makes flaring lines so easy)

Titan 51535 3/16-Inch Double Flaring Tool - - Amazon.com

Flare Wrenches

SATA 3-Piece Full-Polish Metric Flare Nut Line Wrench Set for Removing or Replacing Nuts on Fuel, Brake or Air Conditioning Lines - ST09033U - - Amazon.com

Crowfoot Flare Wrench Set

Sunex 9710M 3/8-Inch Drive Metric Crowfoot Flare Nut Wrench Set, Size-10 - Size 19, 10-Piece - Crows Foot Wrench Set - Amazon.com