Quote:
Originally Posted by joshik
Thanks for the reply! I did look into using a diode between the high beam and the switch panel but it seems that diodes always have a small voltage leak... at least the crappy ones from Amazon did. I tested a few and they did have a small voltage leak. I figured a relay would fix that issue of backfeeding into the highbeams.
So in the scenario of either or on, it should be pretty straight forward. The scenario of BOTH on was a just in case I did so by mistake. There is no use case for it. I was just trying to think of all scenarios and protect myself.
But you are right, either paths could have slightly different voltages due to various voltage drops, however minor it may be.... Definitely something to think about. I may go the route of coming up with some way to have one path cancel the other out if both were to ever be engaged. I might be over
thinking it and some good diodes would prob do the trick huh?
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ok, i think i figured out my master arm vs high beam scenario by using a 5pin SPDT. The master arm will be on the NC side and the bypass will be on the NO side and the high beam will trigger the bypass circuit.
reminder, the light switches are just triggering relays for the lights. The load of the lights are not running through the switch
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2003 4Runner Limited 4wd V8. JBA UCA, Dobinsons MRA Front Coilovers, Dobinsons MRA Long Travel rear. Cooper AT3 XLT 285/70R17
91 Ext Cab 4x4 Yota, black with 4" front IFS trailmaster lift, 3" Downey rear springs, Downey Rubicon extended shackles, and 2" body lift. 35" BFG M/T w/ 4.56. Centerforce II clutch, Rancho 5000s all around and Rancho traction bar, K&N Air filter, Flowmaster, ARB Rear Diff Air Locker, Custom "Mad Eyes" light covers, Extended Diff Breathers, Hella Vision Plus Headlights. [SOLD]