Not just your fuses, check the relay. Relays are hard to diagnose because it is the main "current or Amp" pathway. Testers aren't 100% either because it only tells you a connection is made but doesn't tell you "how much" current or "amp draw" it's allowing to pass through.

I had a brand new 21 Taco with an electrical issue dealer couldn't figure out why the truck wouldn't start intermittently. I took it home frustrated and found the blue color fuel pump relay had a slightly off center contact patch and isn't allowing at least 10A through the pathway. Bending the center contact doesn't really fixes it either so I started using the Grey relay (part# 90987-02028) and never had a starting problem again. Grey relay has the same electrical property as the blue but it's sealed. DO NOT use purple relay to replace blue or grey because it uses higher current draw solenoid for starters and not for constant-on purpose.

The way Toyota design their electrical pathway is genius because everything goes through the relay as a way to buffer low current I/O to a higher current I/O, if electrical pathway is overloaded there is the fuse and there is also a relay to prevent the main wire from burning. But the only problem is burnt fuses are easy to find, tired old relay not so easy to test.

To me, relays are cheap (relative to alternator and battery), I would replace all critical path relays after 10 years. IG-1 (computer module 1), IG-2 (computer module 2), EFI-1, EFI-2 (fuel pump), INJ (fuel injector), A/F HTR (Air Fuel oxygen sensor heater).