After some new Christmas Gifts and tools I got around to installing the Power Tray!

My prior setup used a bracket that I think came with the AuxBeam 8 Switch Panel I have. It worked fine and I was even able to mount my rock light controller on it to. However I hated the look, and honestly seeing the wires underneath always bugged me.




I ordered this PowerTray in June, received it in October (manufacturer issues). I wasn’t in a rush so it didn’t bug me. I went with their “blank” option. They sell some with pre-made cutouts for S-Pod systems, ARB compressors and more. I liked my AuxBeam and paying $70 for a piece of aluminum I wanted it to be perfect for my application.

First thing first is unplug the AuxBeam from the battery and undo all of the wiring. I labeled all my pre-existing connections by name and polarity to ensure an easy re-install. I completely removed the AuxBeam panel from the vehicle and set it aside. I picked up a 60 Amp circuit breaker from Napa that I planned to use. Great safety measure just in case the already installed safety measures inside of the AuxBeam controller fail.



Next thing I did was mock up the PowerTray inside of the vehicle. I read somewhere the 4th Gen 4R PowerTray may have clearance issues with the hood strut, however it closed fine with no contact. The PowerTray bolts to pre-existing threaded holes along the driver’s side engine bay. It has a leg that you bolt to the main tray that goes to a hole on the fender/wheel well.





One thing I did notice when checking fitment is the hood strut does take up about an inch of space on the PowerTray when the hood is shut. Using a flathead I marked a line on the edge to ensure I don’t put something there later.

Next was figuring out where I wanted everything. I decided not to mount my rock light controller on the PowerTray as it really serves no function. I later mounted it underneath. I placed the circuit breaker and AuxBeam panel on the PowerTray, measured twice and drew some lines marking the controller itself and mounting holes. Using a center punch I prepared to screw into the panel.




I then began drilling with my new right angle drill I got for Christmas. I started with a small drill bit and worked up, spraying WD40 occasionally ensured a clean cut. When preparing for this project I reached out to PowerTrays on methods for cutting an oval “wire cutout”. This was my first time really doing anything like this and the folks over there were super helpful. They recommended a Uni-bit to make some holes and use a dremel/cutting wheel to connect the holes. I did just that and it truly worked like a dream. With WD40 it cut pretty quick for how thick it is.



With wiring and cut metal you want to ensure your edges are free of sharpness or anything that could snag the wire. I grabbed some sandpaper, and after a couple of minutes my cut edges were now very smooth.



Next thing next I mounted all the accessories to the tray and installed it on the car. Don’t really know of an easier way but it was a pain in the butt mounting the plate and getting the wires up to the AuxBeam panel. Overall though I got it on and working. For a circuit breaker simply take your pre-existing power cable, measure the distance between your panel and breaker, cut your cable and add connections. It’ll go battery to circuit breaker, circuit breaker to panel. Testing it out worked great, I turned on all my accessories and pushed the button on the breaker, it killed the power to the controller and panel.





Overall a fun install and a great way to learn about cutting metal and making it into your own. The panel did end up with some scratches from all the cutting, being more careful and constantly cleaning your work bench will alleviate that. I eventually plan to add a compressor to the vehicle and left plenty of space to do so.


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