Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 1,082
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 1,082
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Get the parts in and ready to go. Maybe get a flywheel that's easy to return (i.e. local store?) just in case. You may or may not need it, but from the sound of your first post in this thread I think you might.
And get all the tools ready to go as well. 1/2 in ratchet set, several long extensions and a wobble drive make it waaaay easier to get some of those transfer case bolts. Take off the transmission crossmember and trans mount, and let the drivetrain lean back, then get to those from back behind the trans with the extensions.
Even if you've never done it before, you should be able to get it done in a weekend. Main thing being sure you have all the parts you need on hand.
Also, Autozone has free rental tools of various types. Like a torque wrench. If you don't have one and don't want to buy one now. Basically, it's a used tool they 'sell' you at a somewhat inflated price, but will refund you 100% if you bring it back in 90 days. You want to use a torque wrench on the flywheel bolts, and the clutch plate bolts. Too tight is as bad as too loose on bolts like that.
A big variable is rust, you mentioned rust on it earlier. Just dealing with crusty stuck bolts is a PITA. I live in the salt belt and sometimes you just spend a long time on a single bolt. Last time I had the trans out on mine (doing a crawl box) I struggled with the 4 bolts holding the trans crossmember in. Eventually I got 3 removed and just left the REALLY stubborn 4th one in place and pivoted the crossmember down out of the way.
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'99 Highlander 5-spd manual e-locker no-running-board
SS 3" suspension lift/1" body lift/33" tires/'Snowflake' TRD Taco wheels/231mm Tundra brakes/bumpers/armor/sliders/winch/Sherpa Matterhorn rack
Manual front hubs, NWF Eco-crawler transfer case doubler, second gas tank
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