Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy556
Does it start if you keep cranking it? Any signs of chewed wiring or mouse nests?
Do you have access to Techstream or a good scan tool? There will be a P1604 code stored (no MIL or anything a low end scan tool can see) along with freeze frame data from the event, which has info like rpms from the crank sensor, immobilizer status, fuel pump activation, etc.
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I wish I saw this reply a little earlier.
P1604 code was indeed stored. I didn't know about the freeze frame data from the event. If I only knew about this I could have narrowed down the problem to what it really was.
I don't have a scan tool, but I use OBD android apps for diagnostic purposes. The 3 that I use are Car Scanner, Torque Pro, and OBD Fusion. These were enough to do diagnostics for Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, Crankshaft Position Sensor, MAF Sensor. For fuel pump I used DIY fuel pressure gauge.
Is it possible to read freeze frame data from the event on OBD android apps, or I need an actual scan tool for this?
At this point, I really want to invest in a good diagnostic tool that will prevent this sort of headache in the future.
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Making long story short, I found what the problem was. It was the immobilizer chip in the key. If I had freeze frame data from the event with immobilizer status, I would have narrowed down the problem in a few minutes!
I found out about it in a very dramatic way when I was on the edge of mental breakdown trying to start the car that again would not start. I forcefully turned the key in the ignition and the plastic part broke off from the metal key. When I got another key and inserted it into the ignition switch it worked fine.
I returned home and removed and glued the key back in place. The car would not start with the old key, producing the same symptoms as before. It would start with a new key without problems though. I went ahead and cut out RFID chip from the old key and taped it to next to the ignition switch. With it in place I tried to start the car with the old key, and it worked fine. With RFID chip in the casing, the key would not work. Interesting...
I spent two weeks trying to diagnose the cause of intermittent crank and no start issue, looked at every system in the car, changed a bunch of parts, and never even considered that the problem could be as simple as this.
The funny thing is that if I didn't get mad and broke the casing off of the key, I would have never figured out what the problem was.
