Much easier than the driver side, I think you should be able to take off the fuel rail with just the throttle body removed and don't need to take off the entire intake? I just replaced an injector today on the passenger side and it took me about 90 minutes all said and done, so for the driver side I would expect half that at the very most.
As already mentioned, your first step should be moving the coil pack to another cylinder to see if the miss follows.
You can also test the injector with a multimeter, they should read between 13-18ohms (my MotorWest injectors read 13.5 across the board, but when I tested my OEM brown ones last year they were all near 17). If the problem is a dead injector, it'd be a good idea to pick up new crush washers for the fuel rail (#90430-12026, you need two for each banjo bolt.)

Have you been driving the vehicle since making this thread? Given that it seems like you're just starting to address the issue and it's been about a month since the original post, then it would be very wise to change the oil if you find the problem is just the coil pack and not the injector itself, as it's probably very laden with gasoline. Oil can take a little bit of gas and burn it off, but a ton of it is a good way to blow a hole in the side of the block.
You also mention you didn't notice the codes were there, and had no major symptoms. Did you ever try clearing the code and seeing if it came back as 98&me suggested? You would know right away if you had a constant misfire. It would run like hell and the CEL would be flashing.