Quote:
Originally Posted by Grug556
Hey guys a couple of questions I was hoping you could help me with.
I bought a Motive power bleeder to flush out my brake lines. Truck is a 2016 low mileage but hasnt had brakes done since factory. Ugh
Anyhow Ive noticed theres a service manual calling for starting at the front bleeders than moving to the back? I also have seen many saying start at Passenger rear the farthest from master cylinder and work to drivers rear then the fronts? Whats the right method here? I assuming im correct that the motive will be used with ignition and truck off and no pedal depression during the flush. I have already bought a 43mm adapter for the brake reservoir.
So heres the questions
1. What is best way to drain system? Rears first then fronts?
2. Any preference on DOT 3? Factory fluid or other?
3. I think I need about 4x32 oz bottles for a full flush of lines?
4. Anything wrong with say treating the bleeder valves with a squirt of kroil or other penetrant say a day before trying to loosen the bleeders?
5. Whats best, taking tires off or leaving them on?
6. Any issues known with the motive? I was going to fill the jug with 4 bottles and maintain at 15psi for the pressure bleedout
7. Does it make sense using say a clean 60ml syringe to suck out alittle bit from the reservoir first before starting the pump out?
8. I was going to just hang the catch bottle with line in the area near each caliper. Is this basic enough?
9. Am I missing anything?
Thanks for any help on this. I havent done brakes in a few years, rust may be an issue on the bleeders (i have a 10mm flare nut wrench). Any concerns if I have to use an impact gun on bleeder if its stuck? Appreciate any help on this.
Once its finished and I turn on the truck other than check for leaks and ensure top off level to max in reservoir, torque bleeders to 8lbs is that about it?
Hope youre all having a great day, thanks for any help.  |
Not sure I can answer all your questions, but here are my observations:
1. The bleed sequence depends on the how the lines are routed. But on modern cars with anti lock brakes, there are separate lines for each wheel. The "start with rear" was the old rule before anti lock brakes and the rear wheels shared a line. What does Toyota say is the proper sequence?
2. Brake fluids get better with modern manufacturing methods, thus the general rule is to use the highest DOT number.
3. Never use an impact wrench on the bleed ports,; they will break off. (Yes, I have had to drill out broken bleed port screws and it is not fun). Soak them liberally with a penetrating oil for several days before you do your procedure. Sea Foam penetrating oil is the best.
4. It is immaterial whether you take the tires off or not. Much easier to get to the bleed screws with the tires off.
Edit:
1. As you bleed the brakes, the fluid that firsts comes out will be really dark. When it comes out clear, you have fresh fluid in the line. Just repeat the bleed sequence several times to be sure you always get clear fluid out.
2. The purpose of a power bleed is to keep from getting air bubbles in the line. As you bleed the brakes, be sure to run out the fluid until all bubbles are gone. Perhaps removing old fluid from the input reservoir will just add a big air pocket and not be beneficial? Don't know that for sure.
