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Old 11-13-2011, 09:14 AM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerjosh View Post
Hey Drifter
I took a look at post #26, that has the pictures of your blazer MC, what is that round piece that has 3 lines going into (looks like it might be on the left side of the engine compartment)?
thanks
That is where my ABS pump used to be. it is just a T for the 3 front brake lines. next to it you can see the in line coupler for the rear brakes.
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Old 11-13-2011, 09:41 AM #17
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So if you look at post #74 of my build thread you can see what I did for the residual valve. I installed a 2psi vale as all the reading I did said use the 2psi for disk brakes and the 11psi for drum. it has made an improvement, but not as much as the gm master cylinder. i am tempted to try the 11psi i carry a temp gun and can keep an eye on brake temps witch would let me know if there is to much drag on the rears. How ever the sweet spot might just be to use the 2psi in conjunction with a proportioning valve.
It would bee nice to know what the factory recommended brake system pressures for a 85 Cadillac Eldorado are. knowing that I have more weight and bigger tires and the same calipers. I think it would stand true that I would want to increase that pressure some. with this info one could look for a prop. valve that would run the rear calipers in that pressure range. Some day I may have time to do the research.
If you weren't confused before you should be now I hope this helps.
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Old 11-13-2011, 09:56 AM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockdawg84 View Post
Josh, just a question. Do you have a residual valve in the rear brake line. if not that could be your problem. Unless you have the Front Range off Road conversion where you also have a full float rear then you need a residual valve. Here is a quote from FROR fabs website.
"We often get asked "What other benefits does a Full-Floating axle have, why should I convert?" Well, like they say, a picture is worth 1,000 words. Here's the left rear axle shaft in our Tacoma, after just 3 trail runs. This runout translates to about 3/8-1/2" wobble in the tire. This not only wears tires unevenly, but rapidly destroys a drum or disk brake (imagine a rotor with .120 runout!) and it eats wheel bearings for lunch. With a Full-Floating axle, this simply cannot happen. And no, the truck was not jumped, or hopped on obstacles."

obviously they want to sell their kit (which I would love to have someday) but the point is that without a residual valve the wobble in the rear axle will push the pads away from the rotor and take more fluid to push the pads back onto the rotor, thus more pedal travel or even 2 pumps. before you go swapping out a master cylinder make sure that you don't have to. Residual valves are much easier to put inline that adapting a new master cylinder. Good luck
4x4 4runners don't have residual valves. The 4 wheel disk brake Sequoia does not have a residual valves. Neither of one of them have proportion valves either.

If you have run out that translate to 3/8 to 1/2, you need to replace your axle. If it coming from the bearing, then it will need to be replaced to0.


Full floating rearing ends are necessary if your going to carry heavy loads. IE -more than 3/4 tons.

I like full floating rear ends as they are much stronger but for our 4runner, it is over kill and expensive.

If it were on a Taco, I would consider it as they are more likely to get overloaded with cargo and what not.

Which reminds me of a funny story. I was in Thailand several years ago and during the last 2 days of my vacation out there coming back from a Discotec, a Toyota pick up with a cargo cage that went up over the cab was full of pineapples. He ran a stop sign, and I t-boned him.

I was freaking out, I had been drinking earlier and shouldn't have been driving and I thought I was going to jail. Cops came, looked at the seriously overloaded truck and gave the truck driver a ticket and left. 24 hours later, I was on a plane back to the States.

Here is a picture, not mine but similar to what I hit.
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Old 11-13-2011, 10:16 AM #19
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Old 11-15-2011, 12:52 PM #20
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Brake issues

Thanks Singtoe, so not sure where I came up with the idea that the 4runner MC was different/smaller than 1", but every resource I have looked up recently says it is a 1".

I am curious why I would need to remove the ABS pump? If the main ABS fuse has been removed, I would have thought it would just act as a pass through?

I have bled the system (I can't remember how many times) and no bubbles are coming out, but the pedal is still mushy.

Hey driffter33 any reason you didn't try to mount the residual valve closer to the MC? I was reading up on them yesterday and many sources reccommend mounting them as close to the MC as possible.

josh


Quote:
Originally Posted by Singtoe View Post
For what it is worth, I have a Sequoia Master cylinder. It was designed by Toyota for 4wheel disk brakes as the Sequoia has 4 wheel disk brakes.

I did a little research and it is slightly different.

But for what it is worth. The Sequoia Master cylinder is 15/16" bore diameter and the 4runner is 1" bore diameter.


You should be fine using the stock MC.

The bigger mc should give you a firmer shorter brake pedal. If you go down in size, it will give you easier brake pedal but will be soft and have longer throw to it.


I think you need to get rid of the ABS Pump if your not using it.
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Old 01-26-2012, 03:55 AM #21
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josh,

did you ever decide what MC to swap in? Because of my new rear disk brakes. (love them) I would like to move to a little bigger MC as well. My research has revealed that Chevy Avalanche have both 1-1/8 and 1-1/4 MC with 2 post mounting which is what ours should be. I may pick one up this week and see how it goes.

Sam
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:35 PM #22
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I think I responded in a another thread. I installed a 2lb residual valve on the rear circuit (need to reinstall as I have a little bit of a leak)
I have a 1 1/8 bore MC from a chevy blazer (same unit as Drifter33 is using I believe), haven't installed it yet as I've been busy getting ready for my daughter who is supposed to be born on March 6th (of course if she's anything like her mom, she'll be late). The 76 blazer MCs are pretty cheap, brand new at $35, got some adapter plugs from Sky that switch the two different SAE fittings to metric toyota fittings.
I'll post pics as soon as I get this done.
Josh
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:41 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerjosh View Post
I think I responded in a another thread. I installed a 2lb residual valve on the rear circuit (need to reinstall as I have a little bit of a leak)
I have a 1 1/8 bore MC from a chevy blazer (same unit as Drifter33 is using I believe), haven't installed it yet as I've been busy getting ready for my daughter who is supposed to be born on March 6th (of course if she's anything like her mom, she'll be late). The 76 blazer MCs are pretty cheap, brand new at $35, got some adapter plugs from Sky that switch the two different SAE fittings to metric toyota fittings.
I'll post pics as soon as I get this done.
Josh
Cute!! Congratulations on the future owner of your 4runner.
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Old 01-26-2012, 02:12 PM #24
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So, to restate this....if we have 'squishy' brakes, there ARE options (such as the T-100 and Sequoia master cylinders) to upgrade to?
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Old 01-26-2012, 02:41 PM #25
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Quote:
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So, to restate this....if we have 'squishy' brakes, there ARE options (such as the T-100 and Sequoia master cylinders) to upgrade to?
I think both of those are 1" bore or smaller. I think the issue is you need to push more fluid through. My 98, has a 1" bore standard. I'm going to 1 1/8 first.
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Old 01-26-2012, 02:59 PM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerjosh View Post
I think both of those are 1" bore or smaller. I think the issue is you need to push more fluid through. My 98, has a 1" bore standard. I'm going to 1 1/8 first.
And that's done how, specifically - using another MC from another vehicle? (I truly did read this thread; but am sicker than a dog right now and got easily confused. lol)
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Old 01-26-2012, 04:21 PM #27
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Quote:
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And that's done how, specifically - using another MC from another vehicle? (I truly did read this thread; but am sicker than a dog right now and got easily confused. lol)
No worries, things are a littel off kilter out here since the weather is down right spring like. 57 F @ 5AM this morning on my way to work (about 22 degrees warmer than it should be)
MC is 1976 Chevy Blazer unit.
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Old 03-23-2017, 11:43 PM #28
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Originally Posted by Singtoe View Post
...
Full floating rearing ends are necessary if your going to carry heavy loads. IE -more than 3/4 tons.

I like full floating rear ends as they are much stronger but for our 4runner, it is over kill and expensive.

If it were on a Taco, I would consider it as they are more likely to get overloaded with cargo and what not.
The Toyota Hilux (1995 - current), which is a 1-ton truck doesn't have a full floater.
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Old 03-24-2017, 01:29 AM #29
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Quote:
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The Toyota Hilux (1995 - current), which is a 1-ton truck doesn't have a full floater.
at least in North America, Hilux/surf = Tacoma/4Runner and they are 1/2 ton. Even Tundra is rated as a half ton I believe. The advantage of a full float axle is that even if a shaft is broken then the hub still carries the weight of the vehicle and it's cargo. But none of them have a master cylinder big enough for what we are doing it doesn't seem.
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Old 03-24-2017, 02:51 AM #30
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Rockdawg84,

I would go with the MC and booster from the LC80 as those were made for 4-wheel disc brakes.
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