I am running the booster and master cylinder from a 93 thru 98 T-100 1ton, it has a 1-1/16 bore master cylinder.

that is great to know. So to confirm the booster has to be used to go from 2 post mounting of the MC to 4 post. How did the rest of the bolt in go? Was there need to modify anything else?

Pretty sure the 1 ton DRW were full float. I haven't seen a SRW that was FF though.

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/N4Tnvra36Ko/maxresdefault.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1wbgs_cTTA

Tried to measure the bolt pattern on my booster ('99)....seems that a Wilwood 1 1/8" MC would work. Since our bore size is 1" (or 15/16...can remember which)....I don't think the 1 1/16" options will do much good.

Wilwood Disc Brakes - MasterCylinder No: 260-3380

I might try the Wilwood option for $81 over swapping boosters....but I'm a long ways out from worrying about it.

Yes on the 2 bolt to 4 bolt and no mods required. Seems like I had to adjust the length of the shaft coming out of the booster to brake pedal. Measured the old one and adjusted accordingly.

I purchased the TBU from a local guy parting out a rollover. (Think he is Kenworth guy here) the OEM pedal got spongy and I needed to replace both front rubber lines. I chose that opportunity to install the the stuff. I removed the old calipers and and held them out of the way with bunji straps. Did the necessary trimming and what not to mount the replacement calipers and preped everything for installing the new hoses and connecting them to the tundra calipers. That way I had minimum brake fluid loss and less of a chance for air to go bad places.

I opened the bleeder on the tundra calipers so the air had a place to go installed the new rubber on the tundra caliper and the removed the old rubber line and at the frame and connected the new line to the hard line. After solid fluid came out bleeder I closed it and did exactly the same thing to the passenger side. After that I used the pressure bleeder to flush all old fluid out.

The pedal felt better than the OEM setup with the cracked rubber and gave it back to the wife.

A few months later I drove it and pedal travel was pretty much before stopping but wife said nothing about it. I was changing oil and rotating tires and pulled rear drums for a brake inspection and the rear wheels free spun on the spider gears for a good bit of time. I adjusted each rear brake shoe until I heard light scraping on both sides.

I was never happy with how the ebrake felt after replacing the bell cranks so I removed the springs from them and pulled back on the arm and readjusted the bolt head gap to the required thickness (.030 or something like that) on both sides.

The above made a huge difference in pedal feel and it's been maintained for half a year now. (I also told he to start using the ebrake to help keep the shoes adjusted).


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But the holes are on a vertical plane vs horizontal. Maybe the booster pattern is on an equally-spaced circle, and can be rotated 90* on the firewall. Can't say I've tried it.

How can one tell a difference between a single-diaphragm vs dual? And do the dual diaphragm boosters provide more assistance- given the same vacuum?

Apologies. I can't find the Wilwood one I *thought* would work....

It's been a while (like 6 months or so) since I looked into this and it *appears* that they don't make the one *I thought* I looked at. I thought the one I linked was it...with just a remote reservoir option as the one I saw a while back was like this in terms of the reservoir: Wilwood Disc Brakes - Master Cylinders: High Volume Master Cylinder

Now I'm wondering if it was a CNC brakes instead.....nope, just checked. They only have vertical mounting.

I could have sworn is was actually a 3 1/4ish" mounting pattern for the Wilwood....not the 2 1/4" they are showing now. Maybe I'm smoking crack or just getting old, LOL.

This is the closest I've found and it's way more expensive than what I was looking at (IIRC, it was under $100): Wilwood Disc Brakes - Master Cylinders: Aluminum Tandem Master Cylinder

Sorry for muddying the waters. I may still try the last one I linked.....not sure yet.

I have the FJ80 Master from Marlin on my 85' crawler which has Tacoma brake setup in front and disc brakes in the rear. I also run a proportioning valve and the setup works well. Not sure if it will bolt up to 3rd gens but perhaps it would be worth looking into.

https://www.marlincrawler.com/brake/...aster-cylinder

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So this MC should make the pedal travel go away? Or at least the extra pedal travel?

Also running this setup, with good success.

Build thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?t=219718

Anyone got part numbers for the booster and the MC? For those who have converted to the T100 MC and brake booster, which did you use, the 9.75” or the 10.5”?

Disregard I found it. Here is some bonus info so people don’t have to go looking around.

https://www.roundforge.com/articles/...booster-specs/

I did the 231 tbu but have had poor luck the pedal lowers to the floor and has poor braking. I have bled the system numerous times and have adjusted the rears with no luck. I’m assuming the MC is shot? From what I’m reading the t100 brake booster is direct bolt on? What modifications would I need to do to make this happen?

I haven't done this yet. I talked to a guy who builds Toyotas for a living, he told me, after some research that there shouldn't be a lot of difference in break pedal travel. So he told me to check my individual calipers, and then worry about the master cylinder.

tbh i couldn't figure out what was going on so i just returned the parts. maybe ill try again at a later time who knows...