11-07-2011, 12:07 PM
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#1
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Spark plug change out ?
I want to change out my spark plugs, is this a decently easy job to do it myself or do I need to take it to a shop, if I can do it myself do I need to have the plugs gapped? Also would I need any special tool to do the job on my own, and don't most of you guys use Denso plugs?
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1999 4-runner, 4wd, K&N Intake, King Coilovers, 34' Nitto Trail Grappler MT's, LC 8 Wraps, 6000k 55w Bi-xenon HID's, 1.5" BL
Future Mod list: Aussie Locker, Possible Re-gear or SC.
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11-07-2011, 12:52 PM
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#2
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Plugs are easy, all you need is a ratchet, a 6" extension, and a spark plug socket. You will need to take the intake tube off and take the coil packs out, so you will also need a 10mm as well. I only use NGK plugs on all my toyotas, just the cheap V-POWER NGK's. if you want you can use the dual densos but they are a little more pricy. most of the NGK's are at a good gap out of the box but it doesnt hurt to check. hope this helps. good luck
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my 98 build thread [URL=http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/101158-yoterman87s-build-thread.html"]
Clownmeat's 98 turbo T4R build thread [URL=http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/99742-clownmeats-build-thread.html"]
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11-07-2011, 12:53 PM
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#3
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Easy job, shouldn't take you more than about 30-45 minutes. On the left side, just remove the air intake elbow and you'll have easy access. Just becareful removing the electrical plugs from the coils. Remove the boly holding the coil down, they pull right up and then you can replace the plugs. Not sure it matters but I do mine one at a time as to ensure the coil goes back on the same cylinder it was removed from.
On the drivers side, there is a bracket bolted onto the intake, remove that bolt so you can move the bracket out fo your way while you work. Fairly straight forward also, a swivel helps with the last plug.
When installing the new plugs, MAKE SURE THE THREAD PROPERLY. If the feel off, back it out and start again until it feels like it's right. You should be able to get them threaded completely by hand and then just torque them down. New plugs usually come pre-gapped but check them anyway. Takes 2 seconds and it's just smart to do.
I think most guys do run Denso plugs, just make sure you by the double ground plugs. These things use a waste spark system, the double ground plugs will last a lot longer. Also, change your wires while you're at it. New wire kit will only have 3 wires. The wires run from the coils on the passenger side to the plugs on the drivers side. (You'll see what I mean when you start working on it.)
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11-07-2011, 01:19 PM
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#4
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i agree with PITBULL change the wires more than likely they will break when you pull them out anyway.
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<<YOTERMAN>>
my 98 build thread [URL=http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/101158-yoterman87s-build-thread.html"]
Clownmeat's 98 turbo T4R build thread [URL=http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/99742-clownmeats-build-thread.html"]
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11-07-2011, 02:17 PM
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#5
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You guys are awesome thanks
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1999 4-runner, 4wd, K&N Intake, King Coilovers, 34' Nitto Trail Grappler MT's, LC 8 Wraps, 6000k 55w Bi-xenon HID's, 1.5" BL
Future Mod list: Aussie Locker, Possible Re-gear or SC.
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11-07-2011, 02:44 PM
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#7
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I used NGK plugs and wires. Guides I used below. Its really straightforward but a preview always makes it easier.
Anti-seize is a must, a drop will do it. Dielectric grease will make your life easier later on.
You also dont need to remove that bar. Just loosen the bottom bolt so you can rotate the bracket forward a bit to get access to the boot.
97 Toyota 4 runner spark plug remove and replace - YouTube
4Runners.org - Changing Your Spark Plugs
recommended coil packs
Last edited by Brilliant; 11-07-2011 at 02:51 PM.
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11-07-2011, 02:47 PM
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#8
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Glad to help. doing stuff yourself saves you a lot of $$$$.
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<<YOTERMAN>>
my 98 build thread [URL=http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/101158-yoterman87s-build-thread.html"]
Clownmeat's 98 turbo T4R build thread [URL=http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/99742-clownmeats-build-thread.html"]
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11-07-2011, 03:00 PM
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#9
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took me about 45 minutes to do mine, and at least half of that was on only two plugs, #4 and #6, which has a little bit of tighter clearance due to the first gen blower getting in the way a bit. very simple.
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11-07-2011, 04:37 PM
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#10
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I'm glad I asked about doing it almost took it to a shop cuz I heard it was pretty intense, they wanted $150 what a rip off!!
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1999 4-runner, 4wd, K&N Intake, King Coilovers, 34' Nitto Trail Grappler MT's, LC 8 Wraps, 6000k 55w Bi-xenon HID's, 1.5" BL
Future Mod list: Aussie Locker, Possible Re-gear or SC.
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11-07-2011, 04:42 PM
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#11
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And figure you need to earn about $250 to have $150 to spend. There's a lot more savings in DIY than just the actual labor cost. It's usually the labor cost plus about 40%.
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11-08-2011, 03:52 AM
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#12
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so i got them changed today it was actually pretty easy, oh man these needed to be changed pretty bad the gap was way off and the tips were worn down a ton, i can already tell a difference when it starts, it turns over faster, I'm doing the fuel filter in the next day or two which I already know how to do then the IRS and Deck Plate mod, ill have to look into the IRS mod a little more! thanks for the help on doing these plugs
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1999 4-runner, 4wd, K&N Intake, King Coilovers, 34' Nitto Trail Grappler MT's, LC 8 Wraps, 6000k 55w Bi-xenon HID's, 1.5" BL
Future Mod list: Aussie Locker, Possible Re-gear or SC.
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11-08-2011, 12:06 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PitbullRescuer
When installing the new plugs, MAKE SURE THE THREAD PROPERLY. If the feel off, back it out and start again until it feels like it's right. You should be able to get them threaded completely by hand and then just torque them down.
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I use the 'special tool' of a short length of 3/8" I.D. fuel line to start the plugs. If it's started wrong, the plug won't turn, the line slips. The 'feel'is just so much better than with a metal tool, and it's faster because you can just spin it with your fingers until it is snug, and switch to metal to torque it down. Try it next time...sorry I was late.
I use NGK's from NAPA because they are three miles away.
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Last edited by TheDurk; 11-08-2011 at 12:09 PM.
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11-08-2011, 02:21 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk
I use the 'special tool' of a short length of 3/8" I.D. fuel line to start the plugs. If it's started wrong, the plug won't turn, the line slips. The 'feel'is just so much better than with a metal tool, and it's faster because you can just spin it with your fingers until it is snug, and switch to metal to torque it down. Try it next time...sorry I was late.
I use NGK's from NAPA because they are three miles away.
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I've used that tool many times as well. The last time I actually used the spark plug socket with an extension and a very light hand. Did the trick but I agree doing it with a hose makes it even safer.
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11-08-2011, 02:46 PM
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#15
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Ok, so a follow up question. Seems like the Denso plugs are a bit pricier but a bit better, correct? Additionally...I believe the Denso plugs are "OEM" but what about the wires? Best to stick with OEM, or can anyone recommend 'the best' wire set to get?
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