11-08-2011, 10:14 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: ABQ, NM, USA
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Join Date: May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josh.bunch
All joking aside I am genuinely thankful to you and all the others who go above and beyond to help out other members. You guys are what makes this feel like a real community.
Keep up the good work.
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Just paying it forward dude.
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Originally Posted by KSWAY
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Originally Posted by Qyota
Friggin' awesome! Well done.
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Originally Posted by awdjunkies
Yeah no kidding!!! BFAD For Prez!!!!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diagram14
A couple more write-ups like these and Hanes and Chiltons will be out of business.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KinevilsT4R
Awesome write up! Now I'm gonna have to tackle this job as my front trans case seal is leaking too. Thx for the info!
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Thanks fellas. Kinevils, good luck on the job.
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Originally Posted by 99runnerwa
Great write up, very easy to follow. One thing to look out for though is most of the auto parts chains show both the front and rear out put seals as the same part number, so be sure you are getting the right one.
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That's why I only use OEM Toyota Parts when it comes to seals. On top of that, when you go to the parts counter, you can have them pull up the exploded diagrams and make sure you get exactly what you need.
I bought a rear setup from Toyota too...
The correct part #'s for the rear are:
90311-41007 - Seal, Type T Oil (This is the main output shaft seal on the rear, and is definitely different from the front)
90312-23001 - Seal, Type V Oil (This is the seal that goes in the rear companion flange)
90179-22016 - Nut (This is the 30mm nut, and is the same as the one on the front)
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11-09-2011, 10:36 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,788
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Great write up! Questions about the seals... The new one you pressed in with your fingers? It goes in that easy? The old one came out just as easy?
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1996 SR5 4Runner V6 4WD Auto
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11-09-2011, 11:30 AM
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#18
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Join Date: May 2009
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Yeah, I pressed the new one in by hand... more with my thumbs than my fingers. It was still a tight fit, but I had coated it in gear oil beforehand to help it along.
Let me put it this way... once it was in, there was no way you could pull it back out by hand.
The old one was stuck in there pretty good. The rubber seemed to have formed a bond with the t-case. I put a rag around the output shaft to protect the splines, then worked the seal puller in there and hooked the seal, after that it was a couple taps with the hammer on the seal puller and the old seal came out.
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02-12-2012, 01:21 PM
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#19
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 2
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It was a great write up. I followed it almost to a T. I have a few enhancements that maybe the next guy can think about/use for their project. Instead of using the pry bar and large ratchet, I put the t case in 4xL and tranny in 5th, along with an impact driver, the nut came right off. But prior to the nut removal, I used a small screwdriver with a dead blow mallet instead of grinding a chisel to straighten the nut. It works the same, and no damage to screwdriver. I also used an even smaller screwdriver to get the oil seals out, I didn't have a seal puller. I agree with using dealer supplies, and the purchase of the new nut is a must. Also I used a deep socket and a very small rubber mallet to seat the seal, just a little tap tap. The hardest part of the whole project was cleaning up a small oil spill, a little of that thick oil does go a long way. Along with clean up and fresh greasing the undercarriage, it took 1.5 hrs. Hope this can help someone.
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02-13-2012, 03:34 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2009
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Right on Miller, thanks for the feedback. There is definitely more than one way to skin a cat. My write-ups always show what worked for me... if that inspires the next guy to think of a different/better way, that's fine by me.
This write-up got buried in the depths after I put it out, which I assume is because this problem isn't as common as say, adding a transmission cooler, but I'm glad it's being found and used.
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05-28-2012, 12:46 AM
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#21
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
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30mm Nut Job
Thanks for the write up...was great!
Only had one problem....that 30mm nut was on with more than 87 ft lbs.
Took a 1/2 in breaker bar with heat and a floor jack to get it to listen....still took stepping on runners to get it to crack loose. Rest was a breeze!
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05-28-2012, 04:33 AM
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#22
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You're right, if it's the first time it's been touched, that nut is really on there.
I'm glad the write-up helped you out, and thanks for posting to say so.
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05-28-2012, 10:40 AM
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#23
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pocono Mountains
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I missed this the first time around. Very well-done and it now has a place in my T4RHOWTO folder of bookmarks.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
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05-28-2012, 12:11 PM
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#24
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Nicely done BigFish, if I have to dig into this project I know where to look for information. thanks for taking the time to do this
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2000 SR5 Sport 4x4 5 Speed - Sonoran Steel Lift Kit System 1.2 - Front: 3.5": TRD coils & Bilstein 5125 shocks -1" diff drop - Silver skid plate - Rear: 4.5": FJ80 coils & 5125 shocks. - Pan/track bar by Sonoran - K&N CAI - ProComp X-treme AT 285/75/16 - Shrockworks Front Bumper - CBI Rear Bumper w/swing away - Shrockworks Rock Sliders - Flowmaster 40 & 2.5" catback - Alpine Type S - All Pro 1.5" spacers - Yakima Loadwarrior & two viper bike attachments - Tinted front windows to match - Sylvania HID fronts - Custom 'hulk' shift knobs - TRD shift knob - Powder coated 5 Star wheels - Energy Suspension Poly Steering Rack Bushings - Black Tacoma Whip - Uniden PRO520XL w/4' Firefly and PA
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05-31-2012, 12:10 PM
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#25
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Hoorah BigFish
Excellent write up BigFish, I just noticed my leak last night. I was about to have my son take care of this at the shop. However, after reading your detailed write up, you've inspired me to wrench this one myself.
Regards ............ 8sm
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97 House of Kolor Imperial White SR5 TRD S/C TRD Headers AirRaid Intake MagnaFlow high-flow cat Borla exhaust 4x4 5sp E-Locker ICON Vehicle Dynamic Suspension 1st Gen RollBar Bushwacker Flares URD 6th injector kit O2 Calibrator & Short shifter MB Razor BigO XTs DevilsOwn Meth-injection quick disconnects diff. drop, certifit sport hood, kickout sliders, rigid LEDs, front plated and rear swing out bumper and Savage skid plates.
Last edited by 8sm; 09-03-2012 at 11:36 AM.
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05-31-2012, 09:47 PM
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#26
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diagram14
A couple more write-ups like these and Hanes and Chiltons will be out of business.
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Why would Hanes be going outta business soon? I thought they just went tag-less with all their underwear.... stumps me?
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98' 3rd Gen. SR5 Dune Silver. Supercharged 3.4L. Camburg 2.5" coilovers. 890 old man emu rearcoils on 1.5" Daystar rear spacer w/ procomp 9000. K&N cone intake w/ flowmaster exhaust/ 255/85/R16
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06-05-2012, 08:56 PM
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#27
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DONE...........Completed in just over an hour.
Having the instructions, the parts and tool list simplified the task. Once I crawled under to start, everything was layed out within reach for an effortless repair. Thanks again BFAD
Regards ............. 8sm
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97 House of Kolor Imperial White SR5 TRD S/C TRD Headers AirRaid Intake MagnaFlow high-flow cat Borla exhaust 4x4 5sp E-Locker ICON Vehicle Dynamic Suspension 1st Gen RollBar Bushwacker Flares URD 6th injector kit O2 Calibrator & Short shifter MB Razor BigO XTs DevilsOwn Meth-injection quick disconnects diff. drop, certifit sport hood, kickout sliders, rigid LEDs, front plated and rear swing out bumper and Savage skid plates.
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06-05-2012, 10:48 PM
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#28
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Jan 2011
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First time viewing this.
Subscribed.
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Those he commands move only in command, Nothing in love. Now does he feel his title, Hang loose about him, like a giant’s robe, Upon a dwarfish treasonous thief.
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07-01-2012, 10:59 PM
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#29
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Gr8 write up. Was very helpful when I replaced my seal today.
One thing I might add...if the slide yoke doesn't want to slide back on to the bolts, attach the zerk and pump it up with a grease gun to extend the slide.
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09-03-2012, 10:20 AM
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#30
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BigFishAllDay – great write-up! Thank you for the detailed use of proper terminology. Your description of the job and the crisp pictures provided me with the confidence to take on my TC output shaft oil seal replacement.
I found that even after I completely un-staked the stake nut, some metal from the nut remained engaged with the threads of the output shaft. I don’t have a compressor large enough to push an impact wrench so I used a breaker bar and 2-ton jack to break finally break the stake nut loose from the output shaft. The remainder of the job was quick and easy in comparison.
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