Just paying it forward dude.

Thanks fellas. Kinevils, good luck on the job.

That's why I only use OEM Toyota Parts when it comes to seals. On top of that, when you go to the parts counter, you can have them pull up the exploded diagrams and make sure you get exactly what you need.

I bought a rear setup from Toyota too...

The correct part #'s for the rear are:

90311-41007 - Seal, Type T Oil (This is the main output shaft seal on the rear, and is definitely different from the front)

90312-23001 - Seal, Type V Oil (This is the seal that goes in the rear companion flange)

90179-22016 - Nut (This is the 30mm nut, and is the same as the one on the front)

Great write up! Questions about the seals... The new one you pressed in with your fingers? It goes in that easy? The old one came out just as easy?

Yeah, I pressed the new one in by hand... more with my thumbs than my fingers. It was still a tight fit, but I had coated it in gear oil beforehand to help it along.

Let me put it this way... once it was in, there was no way you could pull it back out by hand.

The old one was stuck in there pretty good. The rubber seemed to have formed a bond with the t-case. I put a rag around the output shaft to protect the splines, then worked the seal puller in there and hooked the seal, after that it was a couple taps with the hammer on the seal puller and the old seal came out.

It was a great write up. I followed it almost to a T. I have a few enhancements that maybe the next guy can think about/use for their project. Instead of using the pry bar and large ratchet, I put the t case in 4xL and tranny in 5th, along with an impact driver, the nut came right off. But prior to the nut removal, I used a small screwdriver with a dead blow mallet instead of grinding a chisel to straighten the nut. It works the same, and no damage to screwdriver. I also used an even smaller screwdriver to get the oil seals out, I didn't have a seal puller. I agree with using dealer supplies, and the purchase of the new nut is a must. Also I used a deep socket and a very small rubber mallet to seat the seal, just a little tap tap. The hardest part of the whole project was cleaning up a small oil spill, a little of that thick oil does go a long way. Along with clean up and fresh greasing the undercarriage, it took 1.5 hrs. Hope this can help someone.

Right on Miller, thanks for the feedback. There is definitely more than one way to skin a cat. My write-ups always show what worked for me... if that inspires the next guy to think of a different/better way, that's fine by me.

This write-up got buried in the depths after I put it out, which I assume is because this problem isn't as common as say, adding a transmission cooler, but I'm glad it's being found and used.

Thanks for the write up...was great!
Only had one problem....that 30mm nut was on with more than 87 ft lbs.
Took a 1/2 in breaker bar with heat and a floor jack to get it to listen....still took stepping on runners to get it to crack loose. Rest was a breeze!

You're right, if it's the first time it's been touched, that nut is really on there.

I'm glad the write-up helped you out, and thanks for posting to say so.

I missed this the first time around. Very well-done and it now has a place in my T4RHOWTO folder of bookmarks.

Nicely done BigFish, if I have to dig into this project I know where to look for information. thanks for taking the time to do this

Excellent write up BigFish, I just noticed my leak last night. I was about to have my son take care of this at the shop. However, after reading your detailed write up, you've inspired me to wrench this one myself.

Regards ............ 8sm

Why would Hanes be going outta business soon? I thought they just went tag-less with all their underwear.... stumps me?

DONE...........Completed in just over an hour.

Having the instructions, the parts and tool list simplified the task. Once I crawled under to start, everything was layed out within reach for an effortless repair. Thanks again BFAD

Regards ............. 8sm

First time viewing this.

Subscribed.

Gr8 write up. Was very helpful when I replaced my seal today.
One thing I might add...if the slide yoke doesn't want to slide back on to the bolts, attach the zerk and pump it up with a grease gun to extend the slide.

BigFishAllDay – great write-up! Thank you for the detailed use of proper terminology. Your description of the job and the crisp pictures provided me with the confidence to take on my TC output shaft oil seal replacement.

I found that even after I completely un-staked the stake nut, some metal from the nut remained engaged with the threads of the output shaft. I don’t have a compressor large enough to push an impact wrench so I used a breaker bar and 2-ton jack to break finally break the stake nut loose from the output shaft. The remainder of the job was quick and easy in comparison.