08-17-2013, 01:07 PM
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#31
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 709
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Thanks for the write up, just replaced my front seal yesterday. I believe the cause of failure might have been a tiny rock that I found on the inside of the metal dust shield.
Out of curiosity, does anyone know if the transfer case has a separate breather that can be extended or cleaned out? I couldn't find one after searching around. Could it be that the transfer case and the transmission have a shared breather? I know there is a breather on the top of the transmission, accessible when you pull out the interior trim pieces to access the shifter assembly.
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09-18-2013, 10:34 AM
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#32
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Moderator
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Colo Springs, CO
Age: 37
Posts: 5,150
Real Name: Waldo
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Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Colo Springs, CO
Age: 37
Posts: 5,150
Real Name: Waldo
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sub'd for later use.. looks like this job might be in my near future.
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'99 Toyota 4Runner LTD - Dual Locked | Geared | Mid-Travel | 35s | Armored
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11-16-2013, 10:18 PM
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#33
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Riverview, NB
Posts: 62
Real Name: James
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Join Date: Mar 2012
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Thanks very much! Just finished this job tonight, this thread has been a huge help. Now I can relax
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1999 4Runner SR5 4x4, 3RZ-FE 2.7L 5-speed manual
31x10.5R15 BFG A/Ts, rock-guarded black bumpers, no front valence, turn signals in park light housing. Currently undergoing significant repairs.
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11-18-2013, 12:02 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: ABQ, NM, USA
Posts: 2,870
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: ABQ, NM, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk
I missed this the first time around. Very well-done and it now has a place in my T4RHOWTO folder of bookmarks.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ameining
Nicely done BigFish, if I have to dig into this project I know where to look for information. thanks for taking the time to do this
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Thanks Durk & Ameining! I'm glad you guys found the writeup useful.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8sm
Excellent write up BigFish, I just noticed my leak last night. I was about to have my son take care of this at the shop. However, after reading your detailed write up, you've inspired me to wrench this one myself.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8sm
DONE...........Completed in just over an hour.
Having the instructions, the parts and tool list simplified the task. Once I crawled under to start, everything was layed out within reach for an effortless repair. Thanks again BFAD
Regards ............. 8sm
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8sm, very cool man. Good job getting it knocked out, in only an hour no less... that's fast. I think this job took me 3-4 hours my first time around, but I was taking pictures and figuring out how to do it as I went. I'm glad I convinced you to get your hands dirty, and glad I could save you some time.
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Originally Posted by 1blink
Gr8 write up. Was very helpful when I replaced my seal today. One thing I might add...if the slide yoke doesn't want to slide back on to the bolts, attach the zerk and pump it up with a grease gun to extend the slide.
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Right on. Thanks for the compliments and glad I could help. Also, thanks for the tip/feedback.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jenz
BigFishAllDay – great write-up! Thank you for the detailed use of proper terminology. Your description of the job and the crisp pictures provided me with the confidence to take on my TC output shaft oil seal replacement.
I found that even after I completely un-staked the stake nut, some metal from the nut remained engaged with the threads of the output shaft. I don’t have a compressor large enough to push an impact wrench so I used a breaker bar and 2-ton jack to break finally break the stake nut loose from the output shaft. The remainder of the job was quick and easy in comparison.
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It's really cool to hear feedback like this. I do these writeups to help enable others to DIY and save some $$$, so it's nice to hear that mission was accomplished.
The same thing happened to me (metal engaged with the threads) when I replaced the rear seal on my '97. A small piece of metal from the nut got caught up in the threads and chewed them up a bit. I had to use a breaker bar to get the nut off, and then cleaned up the threads with a Dremel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nobb
Thanks for the write up, just replaced my front seal yesterday. I believe the cause of failure might have been a tiny rock that I found on the inside of the metal dust shield.
Out of curiosity, does anyone know if the transfer case has a separate breather that can be extended or cleaned out? I couldn't find one after searching around. Could it be that the transfer case and the transmission have a shared breather? I know there is a breather on the top of the transmission, accessible when you pull out the interior trim pieces to access the shifter assembly.
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You're welcome. The T-case does have a separate breather IIRC. It's located on top of the case and is somewhat difficult to reach. I think you would also be able to see the t-case breather if you removed your shifter trim from the top side.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JWaldz
sub'd for later use.. looks like this job might be in my near future.
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When the time comes, I hope the writeup is helpful to you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMunn55
Thanks very much! Just finished this job tonight, this thread has been a huge help. Now I can relax
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Good job on doing it yourself, JMunn55! Have a for me, too!
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01-12-2014, 09:09 PM
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#35
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Member
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 31
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 31
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Thank you so much for your post. I've been turning a blind eye to my transfer case leak for a few years until it left a puddle on the garage floor one day. I followed your post step by step and got it done! You weren't kidding about that staked nut! The rear seal is next, but considering the subzero temps here in northern MN and that I don't have a heated garage, I'll wait till spring for that one.
Thanks again!
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04-19-2014, 12:54 AM
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#36
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Moderator
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Colo Springs, CO
Age: 37
Posts: 5,150
Real Name: Waldo
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Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Colo Springs, CO
Age: 37
Posts: 5,150
Real Name: Waldo
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damnit bfad, of course when i need this for tomorrow your photo host account is out of bandwidth.
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'99 Toyota 4Runner LTD - Dual Locked | Geared | Mid-Travel | 35s | Armored
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04-19-2014, 01:07 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: ABQ, NM, USA
Posts: 2,870
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: ABQ, NM, USA
Posts: 2,870
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Dude, I cannot believe the traffic that these write-ups get. I have done everything possible, short of paying for additional bandwidth, to keep these things live 100% of the time.
Last year, I created a 3rd photobucket account that is entirely separate from all of my other photos (builds, trip reports, etc). The only pics on that account are the ones found in these write-ups, and I resized all of them to 600x800 so that each one uses the least amount of bandwidth when viewed, while displaying at a useable resolution.
There's not much else I can do. I wish I could setup a system where each person had to paypal $0.10 into an account each time they viewed one of my write-ups for the first time. That would be plenty to pay for an unlimited bandwidth account through photobucket.
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04-19-2014, 11:36 AM
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#38
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pocono Mountains
Posts: 7,496
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pocono Mountains
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigFishAllDay
Dude, I cannot believe the traffic that these write-ups get. I have done everything possible, short of paying for additional bandwidth, to keep these things live 100% of the time.
Last year, I created a 3rd photobucket account that is entirely separate from all of my other photos (builds, trip reports, etc). The only pics on that account are the ones found in these write-ups, and I resized all of them to 600x800 so that each one uses the least amount of bandwidth when viewed, while displaying at a useable resolution.
There's not much else I can do. I wish I could setup a system where each person had to paypal $0.10 into an account each time they viewed one of my write-ups for the first time. That would be plenty to pay for an unlimited bandwidth account through photobucket.
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That's a shame. Does this site max you out if you attach the photos rather than link them? I've been doing a lot of attachments in my posts lately instead of links as many of my older links have died and it works well. I just don't know if I will run out of 'space.'
EDIT: In case anyone wants the answer, I did run out of space after a while. I had to delete some old ones, and some I was able to double up. Back to using the one working link for FSM stuff--I hope it sticks around.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
Last edited by TheDurk; 10-22-2016 at 12:41 PM.
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04-19-2014, 11:05 PM
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#39
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Virginia
Age: 46
Posts: 193
Real Name: Britt
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Virginia
Age: 46
Posts: 193
Real Name: Britt
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Why not start a kickstarter? I know I would kick in some $$ to bring the photos back to your extremely helpful write-ups.
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'01 SR5 4x4--219K--Purchased in February 2014--99 Talls--Bilstein 4600s--5stars wrapped with 265/75/16 Duratracs
'07 SR5 2WD--68K--Purchased in October 2014--Leaving it stock
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05-23-2014, 05:00 AM
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#40
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Junior Member
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 2
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 2
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Prop shaft retraction??
Great write up and photo's. I started this job tonight but was soon halted by the propeller shaft. All four nuts removed okay, grease nipple removed but I cannot for the the life of me get to to retract so I can move it out the way. I'm thinking of buying a small strop and feed it through the aft end and lever it of the crossmember. Seems a but unnecessary but it's about all I can think of. Did the prop shaft compress easily for you? Thanks.
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05-23-2014, 06:31 AM
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#41
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Drake, CO
Posts: 627
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Location: Drake, CO
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I pried mine back with a large screwdriver stuck between the two faces. Took a bit of leverage
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215k+ 1997 SR5 manual, e-locker, + stuff
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05-24-2014, 07:39 AM
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#42
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Junior Member
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 2
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Junior Member
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Location: New Zealand
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Prop shaft retraction continued...
Turns out my prop shaft was almost seized. On inspection it looked as if a grease gun hasn't been within 50 paces of it ever. Managed to collapse it by using a ratchet tie down/strop through the rear universal and leveraged off the cross member. A few love taps with a hammer on the universal also helped persuade it to let go.
Then came the nut which took a 24"long, 1/2" drive breaker bar and a two ton car jack. I was getting nervous as the whole transfer case was twisting in place from the torque being applied. Actually the whole vehicle appeared to be moving as I pumped the jack just before it cracked. Once the nut was off the rest of the job took about 20 minutes. Seal easily removed with a standard flat head screw driver and new seal easily fitted with thumbs.
Thanks again for the write up it was very useful. Now for the diff pinion seal.
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06-05-2014, 12:50 AM
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#43
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Denver
Posts: 2,350
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Location: Denver
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What would work for an over the counter solution to un-stake an existing staked nut? I don't have a tool to grind a chisel to be thinner as BFAD had to end up doing in Step 7. Maybe a Flathead would work?
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07-26-2014, 01:12 PM
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#44
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Vancouver
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BigFish, Thanks for the write up! I'm having the same exact issue, I ordered the parts and came back to review your post to find the pictures missing. If there is any way to get them back I'll print it off. Thanks for the asssit!
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08-05-2014, 04:33 PM
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#45
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Idaho
Posts: 15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Idaho
Posts: 15
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I'm having an issue assuring that i am getting the correct parts. I would remove the old ones and take them to the parts store to compare but this is my only accessible vehicle so once theyre out its not moving. where is the transfercase part number stamped? or transfercase model i should say. Looking at seals i can get there are seals for RF1A transfercase, TF1AV transfercase, HF2A transfercase. I just dont know the difference or where to find out which i have..
1996 4runner sr5 3.4 Automatic 4x4
Last edited by fast4e; 08-05-2014 at 04:49 PM.
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