Replacing Transfer Case Output Shaft Oil Seals, a How-To for DIY'ers - Page 4 - Toyota 4Runner Forum

atalarico · 08-21-2014, 08:38 PM

Great thread! I'm at the step where you remove the flange and I just can't get the damn thing to come off. Thought/ideas?! Thanks!

Update: I got it off by using some love taps...

New question though! Is this flange damaged? I can't tell if it's significant enough to tear the new seal. Unfortunately I'm going to have to use it because I need to put this back together and get to work tomorrow. However, I can definitely repeat this job again much easier!

Thanks!

atalarico · 08-22-2014, 12:11 PM

*bump* Anyone have any opinions on the flange being damaged? Thanks!

atalarico · 12-29-2014, 03:27 PM

Just wanted to add a few updates in case anyone else finds this helpful:

1.) Still no leaking after quite a few thousand miles, so I think that flange was in decent enough shape still.

2.) A really nice side effect is that I no longer have issues disengaging my 4wd with the push button on my 97 Limited! I used to have to turn my car off to disengage 4wd with the push button after it worked fine for years. It would disengage after I turned the engine back on, but it was annoying. Now it engages and disengages without any issues. Pretty happy about that and I never would have thought this would be the fix for it.

bugman-74 · 08-24-2015, 12:39 AM

Some follow on info for anyone doing this project: If you need seal drivers, head to your local Ace Hardware and shop in the conduit and PVC aisles - you will find something. Pics below show a large shimming washer and 2.5" PVC pipe extender being used on the rear seal, and a 2" box adapter being used for the front seal.

bugman-74 · 08-24-2015, 12:43 AM

Semi-related: The lisle tool works good for pulling the tcase shifter seals (use a socket to install new ones). The transfer case adapter seal and transfer case input seal can be installed with a standard seal driver. The transmission input seal is a bit more tricky, as there is a specific depth - I shimmed it with the same washer used to install the tcase ouput seal (see above).

phased1 · 01-13-2016, 09:51 PM

Thanks to all of you for this thread.
I feel I can handle this repair on my '98 4Runner now that I've read all these posts, and the photos are invaluable.

What a great community!

Quote:

Originally Posted by bugman-74

Some follow on info for anyone doing this project: If you need seal drivers, head to your local Ace Hardware and shop in the conduit and PVC aisles - you will find something. Pics below show a large shimming washer and 2.5" PVC pipe extender being used on the rear seal, and a 2" box adapter being used for the front seal.

LC120Sumi · 05-23-2016, 07:50 AM

Hey!

I'm in this process, but can't get the center 30mm nut off (front flange on the transfer case). Car is on the ground, locked center diff, breaker bar + 2ton lift, impact wrench, but nothing, the nut won't move. I'm afraid I'm going to break something inside the transfer case if I try harder..

Any ideas?

Cheers

Unner · 06-05-2016, 12:11 PM

Just wanted to say thanks @BigFishAllDay

I've now used all of your write ups on my truck and they made the process so easy on those jobs. If I'm ever out in NM I owe you lunch or something.

Thanks for the great write ups!

Tungsten63 · 06-16-2016, 12:17 AM

Informative write up, however you do not have to make special tools to unstake the nut, just put an impact on the nut and it spins right off, or use a breaker bar if you don't have an impact. Using an impact wrench wrench allows you to avoid securing the transfer case output flange from turning with a bar.

Unner · 06-16-2016, 12:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tungsten63

Informative write up, however you do not have to make special tools to unstake the nut, just put an impact on the nut and it spins right off, or use a breaker bar if you don't have an impact. Using an impact wrench wrench allows you to avoid securing the transfer case output flange from turning with a bar.

Unstaking the nut is still a good idea to avoid damage to the threads.

Tungsten63 · 06-16-2016, 12:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LC120Sumi

Hey!

I'm in this process, but can't get the center 30mm nut off (front flange on the transfer case). Car is on the ground, locked center diff, breaker bar + 2ton lift, impact wrench, but nothing, the nut won't move. I'm afraid I'm going to break something inside the transfer case if I try harder..

Any ideas?

Cheers

Perhaps the front output shaft has reverse threads.

Tungsten63 · 06-16-2016, 12:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unner

Unstaking the nut is still a good idea to avoid damage to the threads.

Just took mine off with impact and didn't damage threads. You're more likely to damage threads by hammering on a punch in this area, not necessary at all.

CGYUYI · 06-16-2016, 11:38 AM

The rest of the job goes basically the same as the front. Good luck!

dirteater4 · 06-21-2016, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tungsten63

Just took mine off with impact and didn't damage threads. You're more likely to damage threads by hammering on a punch in this area, not necessary at all.

Are you saying you didn't have to punch the "dent" out and the nut smoothed its self out when you used an impact wrench to remove? I'm tackling the job this weekend and would love to skip the hammer and punch part at the start. Thanks!

atalarico · 06-21-2016, 12:53 PM

So, I remember reading a lot about this when I was doing the output shaft seal up front a few years ago. A lot of people would say, yeah, use an impact and don't worry about unstaking the nut. However, there were a few people who would say don't do that because you'll strip the threads off of the part the nut screws onto (the transfer case?).

I used an impact, and it seemed fine to me. I wouldn't want to do it a bunch of times, but I have a feeling the impact effectively unstakes the nut as it's removing it anyway. Those threads are beefy.

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