05-27-2018, 10:16 AM
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#31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowden
Good grief...my turn... on the plus side I started with the rear differential then the transfer case which, thankfully, both went well. Then came the front diff, and yup, as others have done, managed to round out the drain side hex head.
Let me first start by clarifying one point that is also very conflicting when doing a search. "What size is the front differential hex head for the fill and drain plug?" It turns out that in my 1998 SR5, the fill plug is a 10mm hex while the drain plug is a 12mm hex. So logical isn't it..... NO !!
Anyway with that piece of the puzzle out of the way I then proceeded with the front diff. Started with the top as is recommended and fortunately that one came lose. But no way on the drain plug. I had presoaked it in PB Blaster and used a breaker bar but nothing going. I wished I'd tried heat but I had thought that with the fill side coming lose I wouldn't have an issue with the bottom one. So I now join the ranks of trying to figure out my next move to getting it off. Since I do not weld I don't see the 'welding a nut to the head' as an easy option for me.
In the meantime today, I tried getting a small diameter hose in the fill side to use a hand pump to suck out the old oil but the gears inside the diff wouldn't let the hose past and down to the bottom. So for now my front differential oil is not changed. Crap.
What is it about this one bottom nut that seems to always get too tight does anyone have any idea..? I had Toyota change it the last time, is it possible Toyota just has the wrong torque spec for this nut and way overtightens it I wonder? Is there some intense heat in the differential that causes the bottom bolt thread to fuse to the case?
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Hey Ash, the same damn thing happened to me on my 2000. I wasn't sure how to get it out so I brought it to Toyota. After paying them $150, they had it out. How did they do it? A hammer and chisel just like
@ St Runner
and
@ 96RedRunner
have both said. I was thinking about trying this method but chickened out thinking I'd screw something up.
On Sean's rig, I was sure the plug was going to strip. I was using my longest pry bar and I was literally standing on it with all my weight while Sean was underneath pushing on the head of the pry bar so it wouldn't slip out of the plug. The damn thing actually broke free. Since then, I've broken them free on several different rigs including my 98 with 100% success. I don't know if this is luck or what.
Ash, if you want, I could help you out Wednesday or Thursday this week. Maybe we could shoot a video of the hammer and chisel technique. Let me know.
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05-27-2018, 10:37 AM
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#32
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Stripped Front Diff. Hex Drain Bolt
Take a dremel and square out the hole until you can get a 1/2" socket wrench in it. Weld a nut on if you can't get it that way. 
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Last edited by Ron Burgandy; 05-27-2018 at 10:41 AM.
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05-28-2018, 02:03 PM
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#33
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What measures do you take to avoid the chisel slipping and damaging the differential...? I am tempted to take the 12mm socket and ask a muffler shop to weld that into the drain plug. That's got to be a lot cheaper than the $150 Toyota charged Tim
@ mtbtim
.
Tim I'll check my schedule when I'm back at work tomorrow and see if Wednesday or Thursday is a possibility for me to take the day off, that's a kind offer thanks. If I can and if we go the chisel route I'll need to purchase one is there a specific size or brand that is recommended for the task?
@Ron Burgundy What dremmel bit did you use to get those cuts that's pretty dead nuts on I have to say!! How did you manage to square that out so well in such a small hole..?
Quote:
Originally Posted by St Runner
A hammer and cold chisel is old school and brutal but when you are left with no options it is very effective. Start a notch on the edge of the plug and hammer in a counterclockwise direction. Cursing helps lubricate the threads for easy removal
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1998 SR5 - 3.4/Auto/151k. Toytec, OME, Savage Off-road, Addicted Off-road, 4Crawler, Spidertrax, TBU, ePCK, B&M, ViAir, '00 grill/headlights, Firestone MT, CB mod, RB mod.
Last edited by Snowden; 05-28-2018 at 02:08 PM.
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05-28-2018, 03:22 PM
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#34
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Once you get it off, can you replace it with a non-hex bolt from another part? (be it 4runner or another platform?)
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05-28-2018, 08:24 PM
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#35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowden
@Ron Burgundy What dremmel bit did you use to get those cuts that's pretty dead nuts on I have to say!! How did you manage to square that out so well in such a small hole..?
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believe it was a cylinder looking deburring tool. it was actually pretty easy
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05-28-2018, 08:30 PM
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#36
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The drain and fill plugs sit proud a few mm, thats enough to get a chisel on it. You will need a larger cold chisel because you really need to pound on it while holding it in your hand but you don't need a huge one like a brick chisel. Make sure it has a good edge on it and put a notch in the edge of the plug hitting it towards the middle of the plug. Then you can rotate the chisel so you are hitting it in the direction it needs to turn (counterclockwise). As long as you are always hitting it from right to left of the 4runner and not from the front to the back you won't damage the case. Just give a look after every couple of whacks to check. There is nothing quite like pounding away under your vehicles while cursing loudly to truly impress your neighbors
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05-28-2018, 09:57 PM
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#37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowden
Good grief...my turn... . |
Yep. There a PIA.
Here's what I ended up doing to get mine out.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2970970-post323.html
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05-29-2018, 01:00 AM
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#38
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If for some reason you,
@ mtbtim
and
@ infamousRNR
can't chisel it out, I can weld an m12 in the stripped out hole for you. I welded an m10 in mine, and it did the trick. Having a diff drop would make it even easier. I have a lot of confidence in those guys though
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06-06-2018, 06:45 PM
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#39
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So after deliberating, the direction we ended up going in was to weld the 12mm hex into the drain plug. I was reluctant to want to pound on a chisel trying to slowly turn it counterclockwise for fear it would slip off and mar the diff housing. With the hex socket tack welded in place the drain plug easily loosened with barley much effort at that point. Probably the heat did help some with that as well but I'm sure with the socket firmly secured made most of the difference.
Tim
@ mtbtim
met up with me down at his buddy Wes' shop in Morgan Hill, One Off Customs, and Wes welded the hex socket into the dp. Tim wanted to do a video so he'll have that available on his YT Channel Timmy The Toolman. Tim did a great job of narrating and providing instructional ideas for a various solutions so I'll let his video be the guide rather than me typing a whole lot of 'you could do's' here.
Also, when I bought the replacement drain plug from Toyota (PN# 90341-24014) the replacement DP is now a 10mm hex, to match the fill plug. So next time around I now only need one 10mm hex socket. Great.
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1998 SR5 - 3.4/Auto/151k. Toytec, OME, Savage Off-road, Addicted Off-road, 4Crawler, Spidertrax, TBU, ePCK, B&M, ViAir, '00 grill/headlights, Firestone MT, CB mod, RB mod.
Last edited by Snowden; 06-06-2018 at 06:52 PM.
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06-06-2018, 10:15 PM
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#40
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A plumbers propane torch. Heat the head of the hex cap bolt until it smokes. They try again. If you can get a monkey wrench on it, you may break it free quicker.
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06-06-2018, 11:12 PM
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#41
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This sounds like a job for a torch as stated above.
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06-07-2018, 10:00 AM
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#42
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Just curious, has anyone ever tried to use an epoxy like JB Weld instead of an actual weld?
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06-07-2018, 10:09 AM
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#43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drcoffee
A plumbers propane torch. Heat the head of the hex cap bolt until it smokes. They try again. If you can get a monkey wrench on it, you may break it free quicker.
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Well, you are sort of correct. If you're having difficulty breaking it free, apply heat and then try again. BUT, if you've already stripped it, now you need to find a way to get it out. There's not a tool I know of that could get onto that front diff drain plug. It's recessed between two fins of the diff and not even a plumbers basin wrench would fit in the there. You pretty much have to do what we did by welding the socket onto the plug, welding a nut onto the plug so you can get a socket on there or your use a hammer and chisel to knock it loose.
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Last edited by mtbtim; 06-07-2018 at 10:12 AM.
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06-07-2018, 10:11 AM
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#44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T4R2014
This sounds like a job for a torch as stated above.
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Like I responded to
@ Drcoffee
, I think the application of heat is a great idea to facilitate the removal of the plug. But, once the plug is stripped, you have to figure out a way to loosen the drain plug and the method we used is one of 3 I've heard that works.
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06-07-2018, 10:00 PM
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#45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbtim
Like I responded to
@ Drcoffee
, I think the application of heat is a great idea to facilitate the removal of the plug. But, once the plug is stripped, you have to figure out a way to loosen the drain plug and the method we used is one of 3 I've heard that works. |
Okay so what I did was to torch it, then used a chissel and hammer on the outer edge of the drain plug to rotate the plug. Then installed a new plug. $12.
You want all my secrets.
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The real stats on gun murders in America compared to the world (link)
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