12-06-2013, 10:16 PM
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#31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by So Many Roads
I used the Napa tie rod puller to separate the OTRE from the ball joint without any issues, fit perfectly.
NAPA AUTO PARTS
The Napa Pitman arm puller worked great to separate the ball joint from the lower control arm. It is slightly wider than the tie rod puller.
NAPA AUTO PARTS
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thanks for the recommendations!
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12-06-2013, 10:25 PM
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#32
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Join Date: May 2013
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Real Name: Andrew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmv4k
OK, I need a little help.
I can't seem to find an easy way to get the OTRE and the ball joint to separate. I've been using a NAPA rented puller and a 5 lb sledge hammer. I use the puller to add some force and then whack at it, I think this time it took 20 blows, it's frustrating. But does anybody have a link or a part number to a puller that will fit our trucks? I now have 2 different pullers but both won't fit and I'm sick of going to NAPA and renting one that doesn't really work.
I've had to take my lbj's apart twice now, since I snapped a head (1 of the 4) and can't get it out. I put everything back together because I ran out of time the last time. I did the same thing today, but I didn't finish because it got too cold. This time I got a map gas torch (ts8000 is pretty sick) but I was too scared to heat it up too much, stuff was starting to burn. I placed some roxul insulation, I had, behind it (but the torch got that stuff to melt). I tried to melt candle wax into it. I kroiled it for days/weeks. No luck. So I put everything back together. I think I'm either going to try to reverse drill it out or take it somewhere. I'm running out of time before it gets really cold.
So anybody know of a puller that'll work? I can tell you that this won't work
OEM 27022 Tie Rod/Pitman Arm Puller
OEM 27022 Tie Rod/Pitman Arm Puller - Amazon.com
The inner diameter isn't wide enough. I'd grind it out if I had a way to grind it out.
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Did you try just beating on the old ball joint with a metal hammer to try breaking the tie rod loose? Don't hit the tie rod itself, just the part where the tie rod inserts to the ball joint.
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12-06-2013, 10:34 PM
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#33
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Upstate NY
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Yeah I used a giant sledge hammer. It took a combo of the slightly skewed puller and the hammer to get my off. I think I'd rather use a correct sized tie rod puller next time.
Speaking of next time.... any body have any suggestions on extracting a rust broken ball joint bolt? It's on of the inner ones where the bolt is exposed. I'm thinking about using reverse bits? Or should I just use a standard bit to drill it out? I've never done this before so any tips would be great.
And thanks for the links to the tie rod pullers.... So Many Roads.
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12-06-2013, 11:54 PM
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#34
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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Always avoid 555 suspension parts. These are even worst than moog. LBJ is the most important part in the 3rd gen.So why not get the OEM. If it breaks.... you'll spend $$$ for towing and other repairs and have to buy another set of lower ball joints
I used followings tools from harborfreight to remove lower ball joint and rack ends.
Works great and decent prices!
11-3/4" Ball Joint Separator
3/4" Forged Ball Joint Separator
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12-08-2013, 07:40 PM
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#35
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Join Date: Dec 2012
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just got mine done yesterday good write up here
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12-09-2013, 03:27 AM
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#36
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Banned
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definitive, i think
Last edited by slapdappy; 12-12-2013 at 01:15 AM.
Reason: spelling
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12-11-2013, 10:09 PM
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#37
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Ahhhh
@ nissanh
, the good ol' pickle fork, every toolbox needs one!
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12-12-2013, 12:10 AM
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#38
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555 Suspension parts
Quote:
Originally Posted by slapdappy
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agree
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04-22-2014, 08:20 AM
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#39
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Wisconsin
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Just changed out my Lower Ball Joints
Great write-up, it was extremely helpful as a reference when changing mine Lower Ball Joints. I used the Raygestos 505-1299, 505-1299. My only complaint was that they did not have zerk fittings, so I had to go to my local Carquest and pick up two for a whopping $0.50.
I used a Harbor Freight Ball joint tool to remove the tie rod joint, and a OEM 25262 Pitman Arm Puller for the lower ball joint. The Pitman was too big for the tie rod joint.
The whole job for both ball joints took me about 2 hours. I was pretty easy with the right tools.
Thanks again for the great write up.
1997 4Runner Limited
-andy
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09-08-2014, 02:10 PM
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#40
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This job was a bit more of a PITA than I expected .. I am still confused how your puller fit nicely between the tie rod end the joint. I had to grind mine down significantly to get it pound in between the arm and joint.
Also be super careful not to even touch the tie rod bolt, beucase it's burred up at all, you can't get the castle nut back on without the tie rod stud spinning. So I had to replace both outer tie rods. The spinning was a sign of excessive wear anyhow.
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05-11-2015, 10:21 PM
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#41
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Location: Richmond, VA
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Thanks!
This thread was really helpful for me. I just installed new OEM lbj's today - the first front end job that I've taken on myself (did my lift with a friend). It was a good first job to take on!
I used this front end service kit from Advance Auto. I'm not sure which puller it's called, but I used the taller of the bunch, and it worked like a charm. I used it to separate the tie rod end, as well as the lbj, and they were broken loose in 30 seconds each. And, I was able to preserve and reuse the tie rod end. Would highly recommend this kit after all the trouble I'd read about people getting the tie rod loose.
Only hit a couple snags:
The cotter pin rusted and broke off, but after a while of messing with it, was able to pop it out with a punch.
I had a hard time on the first side getting the lower lbj bolt into the lower control arm - I just couldn't push it far enough in to get a few threads to pop through. I used a pry bar on the upper control arm, against the under side of the shock top hat, and that pushed the entire wheel assembly (and lbj) right into place. Repeated on the 2nd side for a much quicker install.
When trying to torque the 4 bolts on the lbj, the entire wheel assembly would turn too. I loosely reconnected the tie rod end to prevent the turning, and I was able to torque everything down that way.
All in all, took about 4 hours from set-up to clean up. Not bad.
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05-12-2015, 07:55 AM
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#42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bspurs
This thread was really helpful for me. I just installed new OEM lbj's today - the first front end job that I've taken on myself (did my lift with a friend). It was a good first job to take on!
I used this front end service kit from Advance Auto. I'm not sure which puller it's called, but I used the taller of the bunch, and it worked like a charm. I used it to separate the tie rod end, as well as the lbj, and they were broken loose in 30 seconds each. And, I was able to preserve and reuse the tie rod end. Would highly recommend this kit after all the trouble I'd read about people getting the tie rod loose.
Only hit a couple snags:
The cotter pin rusted and broke off, but after a while of messing with it, was able to pop it out with a punch.
I had a hard time on the first side getting the lower lbj bolt into the lower control arm - I just couldn't push it far enough in to get a few threads to pop through. I used a pry bar on the upper control arm, against the under side of the shock top hat, and that pushed the entire wheel assembly (and lbj) right into place. Repeated on the 2nd side for a much quicker install.
When trying to torque the 4 bolts on the lbj, the entire wheel assembly would turn too. I loosely reconnected the tie rod end to prevent the turning, and I was able to torque everything down that way.
All in all, took about 4 hours from set-up to clean up. Not bad.
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Nice work, as for cotter pins they are soft and wont stop you from taking the nut off.
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05-25-2015, 10:25 PM
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#43
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: f
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Alright, so I managed to get the tie rod end off the lower ball joint on the passenger side after 4 tries. In the process, I messed up the boot on the outer tie rod end, so I'm currently trying to replace that. (I'm hoping I don't mess it up on the driver's side).
This entire LBJ is frustrating the crap out of me, and it's supposed to be super easy.
Now, I'm having problems getting the outer tie rod end off and the jam nut off... I soaked it with liquid wrench, put the tie rod end back in the knuckle to prevent it from turning. I'm turning counter clockwise which I'm pretty sure is correct.
Any tips for this one?
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05-25-2015, 10:49 PM
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#44
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Join Date: Mar 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by satek
Alright, so I managed to get the tie rod end off the lower ball joint on the passenger side after 4 tries. In the process, I messed up the boot on the outer tie rod end, so I'm currently trying to replace that. (I'm hoping I don't mess it up on the driver's side).
This entire LBJ is frustrating the crap out of me, and it's supposed to be super easy.
Now, I'm having problems getting the outer tie rod end off and the jam nut off... I soaked it with liquid wrench, put the tie rod end back in the knuckle to prevent it from turning. I'm turning counter clockwise which I'm pretty sure is correct.
Any tips for this one?
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Is the lock nut stripping? If so, two large pipe wrenches (18"+) should do the trick
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05-25-2015, 10:57 PM
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#45
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No, it's not stripping. Its just that I can't get enough leverage under the wheel well. I'm using a 12" wrench and barely have any room to navigate. Where would you put the 18 incher?
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