If your upper balljoints boots are intact and not leaking grease, and you can't detect any noticeable play in the joints, I'd leave them alone. The uppers aren't a known failure problem for our 3rd Gens. You could check for play in the upper joints by raising the tire a little off the ground, put a breaker bar under the tire and now pull up over and over again while looking at the upper balljoint for play.
Thanks I will do that check again tomorrow to check the uppers.
Even if you trust others to work on your vehicle, VERIFY that they did a good job.
My friend bought this used 3rd-gen. Clean vehicle and there was evidence that it was well-cared for. However, knowing that this generation has issues with the lower ball-joint system (BJ under tension, not under compression like 1st and 2nd gens), I took a quick look. BJ's are in good condition but I immediately noticed the the missing cotter pin, AND the gap resulting from nut unscrewing itself as a result. This nut holds the weight of the vehicle, and when it comes off, so do the knuckle and the wheel. Serious consequences would follow.
Normal BJ on Passenger Side with Cotter Pin on Castellated Nut:
BJ on Driver Side in Good Condition but No Cotter Pin to Secure Castellated Nut:
The nut has started to get unscrewed...
@infamousRNR
and I have a couple videos for you. The first shows a method to detect play in balljoints and the second is a tutorial to replace the LBJ.
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86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
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Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 06-07-2017 at 02:08 PM.
99 4runner with 216,000 miles. going to be doing my ball joints soon, if i choose to do tie rods later due to budget constraints will that be dangerous to my new lower ball joints?
It would depend on the condition of the of the inner and outer tie rods. I went with aftermarket inner tie rods and OEM outer tie rods just to be safe. The inner tie rod doesn't necessarily need to be OEM but on the Outer tie rod most definitely in my opinion. You also going to want to do a front end alignment after changing out the LBJ's.
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__________________ Hebrews 11:1 Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen.
Hi-
I saw your post, put picture links do not show up- I guess third party picture host changed the rules. Anyway, what year 4rnr was this ball joint replacement done on. I have a 2003 and I am trying to figure out if lower/ upper ball joints are replaceable or if I have to replace entire lower control arm? Looks like from searching OEM parts they want to sell you entire LCA with ball joint and bushings. Cost $300 per side. Ouch!
Thanks for any help.
Hi-
I saw your post, put picture links do not show up- I guess third party picture host changed the rules. Anyway, what year 4rnr was this ball joint replacement done on. I have a 2003 and I am trying to figure out if lower/ upper ball joints are replaceable or if I have to replace entire lower control arm? Looks like from searching OEM parts they want to sell you entire LCA with ball joint and bushings. Cost $300 per side. Ouch!
Thanks for any help.
Just the 3rd gens. Your 2003 is the first year of the 4th gens, so your good, unless you can detect that yours is majorly worn out.
I referenced this guide while changing my LBJs today, thanks!
FYI, my FSM and some of other guides/spec lists on the internet specify 67 Ft.Lbf for the LBJ to outer tie rod end, not 53. Most people are probably hitting the higher value anyways in order to get the castle nut to line up, but better safe than sorry.
This thread was really helpful for me. I just installed new OEM lbj's today - the first front end job that I've taken on myself (did my lift with a friend). It was a good first job to take on!
I used this front end service kit from Advance Auto. I'm not sure which puller it's called, but I used the taller of the bunch, and it worked like a charm. I used it to separate the tie rod end, as well as the lbj, and they were broken loose in 30 seconds each. And, I was able to preserve and reuse the tie rod end. Would highly recommend this kit after all the trouble I'd read about people getting the tie rod loose.
Only hit a couple snags:
The cotter pin rusted and broke off, but after a while of messing with it, was able to pop it out with a punch.
I had a hard time on the first side getting the lower lbj bolt into the lower control arm - I just couldn't push it far enough in to get a few threads to pop through. I used a pry bar on the upper control arm, against the under side of the shock top hat, and that pushed the entire wheel assembly (and lbj) right into place. Repeated on the 2nd side for a much quicker install.
When trying to torque the 4 bolts on the lbj, the entire wheel assembly would turn too. I loosely reconnected the tie rod end to prevent the turning, and I was able to torque everything down that way.
All in all, took about 4 hours from set-up to clean up. Not bad.
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