I wish you the best of luck on this headache...

It is stories, and previous experiences like this that make me do what I do when I tackle a project. People end up tearing their hair out over something that was supposed to be as simple as hooking up an adapter to a factory harness...

I guess I am more interested in what things can do, more than what they are designed to do... For me, it is just easier to start from scratch and design it all, modifying the system design as needed once I am in the thick of it... That way there is no confusion of what wire is what, and "where does that one go?"...

Plus, this way I can make improvements along the way, and if I find some system like the OEM power antenna that I want to use, I can science it out enough to get it to work with what I have in my design...

All this is no consolation, or help, for your current predicament...sorry...

On a more specific note... That power antenna relay has several more "control" and "sense" wires running in and out of it... Again, having never seen any OEM schematic, or pin out diagram for the module, it is hard to say for sure if there is anything else that is preventing your antenna from working the way it should...

This is why I put it on the test bench. I knew that if I found out what pins required constant power/ground, and what pins were the outputs to the antenna itself, all I needed was to find the other pin that required voltage to trigger the module to do what I wanted it to...

I knew (if I had to) I could cut all the rest and know that the antenna would go up (or down) when my new stereo told it to... I did not care about any other OEM control sensor or timing circuit having a say in my antenna usage...in fact, I wired the entire A/V system to direct voltage (with circuit breakers that could be manually tripped and reset) so I did not even have to leave the key in the ignition to jam tunes anywhere...

If I had the time, and a spare module, I would create a tech bench write-up worthy of a sticky... Alas, I do not...

Good luck young grasshopper...

Just because I like to close threads.

Figured out the solution today.

Connect the blue wire to the remote wire that comes out of the head unit. Connect the red wire to a power source, the yellow line that comes out of the factory harness works well.

What happens? Antenna goes up when Kenwood is on any mode other than standby.

I would recommend putting in a with a aftermarket unit. As the remote wire will put out signal anytime it is being used because it needs to be on for amps. Having the antenna up all the time is not necessary.

Either way, resolved.

Trying to put in amplified bass tube, and need to hook up to a remote wire. I also have an aftermarket Kenwood headunit and would like someone to confirm with me what wire to tap into. Reading through this thread and looking at wiring diagrams, can't figure out should I tap into gray wire coming from vehicle, or should I splice into blue/white or yellow from the head unit? (Its been awhile since i've been back there so I can't really remember whats connected to what and power antenna does go up and down except in standby mode)Anybody care to pick a color as thats sort of where I am at the moment at least until I think about it some more.

BTW, i'll be in the dash again tomorrow and i'll try and snap some more pics to add to this thread as mine is pretty much identical to whats been described in this thread and the more info we can mash in here the better imo.

Thanks.

EDIT: Hmmm, just saw the "radio reset" thread, maybe I wanna splice into the yellow wire coming from the vehicle?

Yellow is the +. 100% sure of that. So not that one.

You need to tape the blue/white wire, the one that does not say antenna on it. It is either the blue/white wire or the blue wire. One of those two 100%.

Cool tb :thumbsup: My manual looks identical to the one posted earlier, and it shows that blue/white being used for the factory amp, so that makes sense to me, but its also tied to the power antenna, and I thought that might cause it not to work when in CD mode being the ant. retracts. Maybe i'm overthinking..(thats hardly ever been the case), but thats gotta be it. I don't even remember the blue wire I don't believe. I'll have to get back in there and look around tomorrow, then it probably come back to me.

If you manual is exactly the same as the one posted, I would connect your amp to the "P.CONT" which will turn on your amp every time your head unit is on. Then I would connect the "ANT. CONT" wire to the blue/whatevercoloriscomingfromyourantenna and then get a wire nut and connect the antenna power, the yellow and the vehicle power together. That way your antenna only retracts and goes up when your listening to radio.

this is how everything already functions at the moment, so shouldn't I just be able to splice off the blue/white (Power Control) wire?

NOTE: Just realized that's "power control" not "power continous" , that changes how I see everything. DOH!

Finished the bazooka install. Unfortunately was to into just getting it done didn't get alot of pics, but did snap one of the wiring harness I used. It is the white harness indicated above, with a separate 4 point harness coming off of it for the speakers. Ended up connecting the remote wire from the amp/sub to the blue/white wire (which was being used in my setup). When you do this you have to remove the AutoOn loop that comes plugged in on the tube from the factory. Works perfectly (only on when in Tuner & CD mode, sub off in standby mode). $3.99 wire light/tester from ACE hardware found its way into my toolbox. I'll never do another electrical project w/o one.

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