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Old 06-16-2019, 04:21 PM #29011
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Originally Posted by 4Runner4Leon View Post
I ended up going back to the original bullet MAF, after trying the '99+ MAF setup in my '97 for a few months. I could not get happy with the high LTFT of the new style MAF, and didn't see any improvements in gas mileage. My STFT was oscillating pretty wildly, and it seems like the ECU had to constantly compensate by adjusting the LTFT to as high as 11%.
Interesting. You went with the Volvo set-up we saw awhile back? I've got the 99+ mod too, 4Runner style. Will have to look at those numbers next time out because curiosity, maybe swap my good 96 maf back to get those numbers as well. No real improvements on mileage either, but that wasn't what I was going for anyway-not that I would have complained...
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I know this is a weird ass question but do you shave your legs or something?
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Old 06-16-2019, 05:04 PM #29012
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Exercised 4Lo out on the prairie. Just stirring the oil, no need for AWD when we can get the Prius out here with only a little scraping and cursing What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?.
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Old 06-16-2019, 06:21 PM #29013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by habanero View Post
Interesting. You went with the Volvo set-up we saw awhile back? I've got the 99+ mod too, 4Runner style. Will have to look at those numbers next time out because curiosity, maybe swap my good 96 maf back to get those numbers as well. No real improvements on mileage either, but that wasn't what I was going for anyway-not that I would have complained...
Hi hab, yeah, I did the Volvo duct swap discussed on Tacoma World, to avoid having to get the whole 99+ air duct system. It all fit together great, and looked good, and your connector repin guide was awesome! But I made the mistake of looking at the LTFT numbers, and the more I looked, the less I liked it. There's quite the heated discussion on TW between people who apparently know way more about LTFT and STFT than I do - but I did walk away with the message that the original system was probably well sized/engineered for the stock truck, and just because you can get a bigger duct, doesn't mean that it's a good idea (unless adding a supercharger). I think the bigger opening allowed more air to go in than the ECU expected, so it constantly had to compensate for it, hence the high LTFT.

I didn't see any tangible negatives, the gas mileage stayed the same. But it bothered my engineering mind that the ECU constantly had to compensate for what I did, so I went back to stock. I think if my MAF ever dies, and I can't find a reasonably cheap replacement, this may be a good setup to fall back on!
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Old 06-16-2019, 08:38 PM #29014
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Finally completed my front end work, for now.


New OEM LBJ's - from www.toyotaofdallas.com/parts - 110 each - local pickup in DFW saves the shipping! - Take a closer look at these. The old ones were AC Delco Professional line and are stamped 555 on the other side. Notice some distinct differences with the OEM new ball joint. The main difference is the way the tie rod end is machined, and also take a look at where the 4 bolts go through! Anyone telling you that the 555 branded ball joints are just as good, are FULL of it! I put these 555's on in 2012 and 40k miles ago. They are so notchy that they will hardly move. The oem ball joint has some resistance, but moves like BUTTER. This truck has hardly been abused either, so I'm glad I changed them out when I did.

New Inner/Outer Tie Rods from 1auto.com - Saving my pennies for a NEW OEM or Safari rack in the future.

New CV Axles Left and Right - 2nd Time I've warrantied these from Oreilly. I'm down to 15-20 minutes to change one out if I've got the tools handy. If anyone in DFW needs CV Axles or Ball Joints and Inner/Outer Tie Rods, I'm happy to assist!

Dropped off at Firestone for my free Lifetime Alignment. This has been worth every bit of the 170 I paid for it in 2013! I'd had it aligned at least 3 times since then, so it's certainly paid for itself.

Charged the AC using AC Pro Refrigerant. The system keeps passing the vacuum test, but still loses all refrigerant after a month or two. I plan to replace all the seals next time and see what happens there. I'm not about to pay some shop to "diagnose" the system on a 20 year old truck with almost 400k miles. If all new seals doesn't fix it, I'll be replacing every damn thing in the system with new Denso parts.

And Finally, gave the whole thing a wash and vacuumed. It's been sitting for weeks at a time, and hasn't been washed or vacuumed since at least September of last year!

A little bonus video of powerwashing the skid plate! I REALLY need to do my valve cover gaskets. As bad as it is, I still only use 1 quart of oil in 5k miles! -
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What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?-ball-joint-far-jpg  What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?-ball-joint-close-up-jpg  What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?-powerrrrr-jpg  What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?-clean-jpg 
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Old 06-17-2019, 08:41 AM #29015
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Finally got around to repainting my wheels. The old "rustic myst" bronze look got updated to "oil rubbed brass" that's a nice high-metallic fleck dark-gray. Used 80-grit sandpaper to knock down the damaged areas followed by 320-grit to smooth it out. Made sure to go way overboard with the masking off of tires and trim (3M painters tape and heavy paper), and used plastic trash bags to cover the rotors and calipers. 4-5 light coats of paint, followed by 3-4 coats of clear enamel to get this:
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Old 06-17-2019, 10:03 AM #29016
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Finally was able to wire in and fab up some brackets for mounting my new used Extreme X6S 38!
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From ye fellow @Konkordmusk... "The 4Runner does not drive. It simply rotates the Earth to your desired position."
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Old 06-17-2019, 11:42 AM #29017
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Transmission drain and fill and cleaned off the air filter (slap the heck out of it on the floor then blow air through the back).
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Old 06-17-2019, 07:41 PM #29018
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Quote:
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Gauge cluster flex circuit board. Swap gauge clusters first to see if it fixes it... a new flex PCB should still be available from Toyota.

-Charlie
Know what fixed it? After a body lift my engine was not properly grounded to the frame. A #10 wire from block to frame made everything right!
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Old 06-17-2019, 10:38 PM #29019
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Angry

Put in a new accelerator cable. Drove it down the street and now it won’t start. On to the next fix
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Old 06-18-2019, 03:26 PM #29020
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Finally was able to wire in and fab up some brackets for mounting my new used Extreme X6S 38!
I DIG your rig!!! Very nice...where the hell is Wisco?
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Old 06-18-2019, 04:12 PM #29021
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I DIG your rig!!! Very nice...where the hell is Wisco?
Note his license plate. Shortened version of Wisconsin.
Urban Dictionary: Wisco
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Old 06-18-2019, 05:51 PM #29022
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Scored an OEM hitch for only a few bucks! Anyone have a writeup/knowledge on trailer wiring install?
If you haven't already found a diagram: https://assets.curtmfg.com/masterlib..._55341_INS.PDF

Curt Manufacturing has great installation instructions. When I did rack/hitch installs we'd reference their instructions "all" the time.

This was for the 1997 SR5, so search accordingly, but I don't think there's much difference.

And I'm sure other's will tell you, if you have an automatic, consider a separate trans-cooler. I have manual so I'm not worried.
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Old 06-18-2019, 08:51 PM #29023
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Guess what happened next What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Old 06-18-2019, 10:39 PM #29024
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Just a update ...scored a 4xinnovation for a killer deal cough cough $400 cough it came with some led light changing light bar and cubes ... sold my brush guard , sold the lights and installed the bumper , just waiting on the frame plates to finish it up ,installed my old light bar and got new led cubes , and also got a new relay to get rid of the hyper flash at 333,850 miles
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Old 06-19-2019, 03:47 AM #29025
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Just a update ...scored a 4xinnovation for a killer deal cough cough $400 cough ....
Used?? I've been surfing all night looking for new steel!
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