Sometimes the right thing isnt the easiest thing. Cheers from CT

Bought a break booster from a parts 4Runner for $25. Replaced it today and my breaks are fantastic.

Installed some 400lb silver coils to my Toytec adjustable set up (perfect for my 2wd 3rz). However you may find out that the normal spring compressors don't quite work with the thinner diameter coils and shock body. So I had to come up with this kajigger to get the coils off. There were no loaner tools that would could do the job and all the auto shops don't want to compress coils because of liability reasons... I wish there were more small shops instead of all these corporate mechanics.

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Now you're going to tell us you have corresponding lights on the gauge cluster!

This happening in offseason Seat heater control in that location so I went LC rotary locker switch - your battery switch. Works, don't like having RR or RR & FR only function with LC switch after using it a while.

Internet sucks in my area with people working from home overloading system time for Woo Flu to be gone.

You know I've already been there, done that...post 31246

Thanks for confirming that the LC switch would fit there as I thought it might.
Looked at that option but agree, wanted more choices as to which locker was on when.
PS. Seat heater would be very nice (insert Homer drool emoji here)

finally got cheapo switch panel and rear light hooked up

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wow...kiiler few days in a unheated garage where temps did not break 30. Got my 3 inch lift done. Sonoran Steels 1.2 kit. Tundra TRD coils, billie 5100's, Lc coils and tokico shocks. Went with pan hard brackets rather than the adjustable pan hard rod.
At same time did upper control arm bushings and upper ball joints ( all toyota) as I had one upper that was iffy at last alignment this past spring .
Had on hand rear upper and lower control arm bushings...white line..they felt and looked good and I was beat...so did not do them. alignment tomorrow.

Dont think I will get to my ARB bumper or smitty winch till spring. ( both sitting in garage) Got to finish my cabin/home and ive already got a few inches of snow...so back to that project bit a sloppy upper ball joint was calling my name to do now.

Lots of thanks to timmys videos, good instructions from sonoran steel, lots of reading at this forum, and my 20 ton harbor freight press

Original owner of a 99 4runner with 299K.
After hunting down all the parts necessary, I finally did my Elocker install.
No factory harness, I had to build it from scratch.
The forum was very helpful, no problems encountered.
The only question, is about the 5mph safety bypass.
Since I may want that feature, has anyone tapped into the speed signal from the instrument cluster to the SPD terminal on the Diff lock ECU, instead of grounding the green and orange wire?

Thanks












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PSS. Your neck of the woods for sure, mine don't think I used them last winter.

Swapping to your setup relocating seat heat to where it should have been on center console bit of work.
It's floating between my ears to just add a switch to RR circuit, LC switch in both position flip switch drop out RR easiest route.
Trail use you'd have to think about what you want flip switches accordingly, you see a downside to that ?

I'd rather have to have that extra thought bubble than not have the choice. It sounds like you'd have the set-up you're used to, then the extra only front option.
That being said, the front diff is pretty new to me. There have been a few times when I only wanted a pull-me rather than a push-me pull-me, and was glad to have the option- so I can say I don't see a downside if you can wire it up that way.

Over the past few days i've gotten the front part of my frame painted. Did 2 coats of POR 15 then 2 coats of Eastwood Extreme Chassis Satin Black. Painted the wheel wells with some rubberized undercoating. Also got JBA control arms in. Just waiting on my rebuilt spindles to arrive so I can get everything back together. Got them rebuilt by @heavy_friction_works on Instagram.
Some before and after pictures and a picture of my rebuilt spindles.

Everyone is posting cool stuff and I'm over here spending 4 weeks trying unstick a yoke. XD

Hey guys I am new to the forum. I have a 3rd GEN Runner. I am looking to do automotive work out of it and would like to know what the best suspension for carrying heavy loads are. I plan to put a gas compressor in the back and my toolbox. I figure that the quick struts from a tundra would work well in the front but unsure what’s best for the rear. I don’t want to have to do major modifications regarding the height such as extended flex lines etc. Please help anyone who has experience in this specifically. Thanks a lot!