I could keep this thread going for a long time! I am currently in the process of restoring the undercarriage of my 2002 sr5.

Today, I rebuilt the Evap system with new hoses, copper/nickel tubing, and SS crimp clamps.

When I bought it there were a few things already done to it. This is what I'll be adding: skid plates, new tires and wheels, rear locker, front bumper, cb radio...then of course the aesthetics: window visors, seat covers, floor liners, extra storage. I am going to paint the door handles, side mirrors, and rear bumper black.

I celebrated:

Steering rack bushings, sway bar bushings, inner and outer tie rods.


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I just reinstalled the gas tank after sandblasting and painting with POR15.

Picked up 2 universal Dorman kits for the front seats and got them wired in this last weekend...
Got up a 20mm forstner bit and drilled holes in the plastic trim panels to mount the switches. Install is all wrapped up now.

Cleaned the throttle body and the idle air control valve, replaced the throttle body mounting gasket, cleaned the mass airflow sensor, and replaced the vacuum hose that connects the intake resonator to the upper plenum.

I noticed that the wire that connects to the power steering idle-up switch is cut and the connector itself is missing. I guess I know what I’ll be doing next...

Just a routine wash and wax baby. Oh yeah. She’s looking goooooood.


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I’m on my way.


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New member here...thanks for having me. Knocked a few things off the to-do list today, with a few open questions that I hope to get some feedback from the group:

#1 after about 4 years of having no automatic driver side door lock functionality, I finally ordered the $10 actuator part and spent the 2 hours to get the repair done successfully! What a great feeling!!

#2 received back the climate control repair from John on ebay (learned of here in the group) and it works perfectly!!! I struggled with this for years getting the controls to work, even turning off the a/c in the early mornings. Now it works with barely pushing a button and I can feel the clicks when changing the temp controls.

I got a few more little annoyances on order for fixing soon, but left with two open questions I'm hoping for some help on:

- In the pocket area next to the handbrake, what does everyone put in here? Seems like a strange storage space, that I can't think of anything great to place in there.

- In the center console, I've had a piece in there for nearly 13 years since I purchased this that I have no clue what it's for. Can anyone help identify this from the pic? Where does this go and/or it's purpose?
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/membe...g-0283-1-a.jpg
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/membe...g-0284-1-a.jpg


Thanks everyone....great group!!

Welcome to the forum!

If you'd like, I have a '96 center console that I can trade with you. I'll even throw in the e-brake mount so you can add it to your rig. I only ask for your center console and the e-brake mount in exchange *fingers crossed

Earlier this week, I received my SPC UCAs, Whiteline LCA bushings, and I also gathered all the parts for the Tundra brake upgrade and got really busy on Wednesday morning.

I went with SPC UCAs as it would be helpful to adjust things when I upgrade my tires in the near future. Installation was a breeze; unfasten, remove the bolt, grab new UCA and contort your hands, move some parts, and Abracadabra Alakazam! - New parts practically walked themselves back into the original space:


The LCA were a PITA TBH! Nearly removed the rack and pinion, match marked camber dials, contort tie rods to remove the bolts. Once they come off, the real fun began:


I used a ball joint press to pop off the inner bearing sleeve from all LCAs; Used the blowtorch method to assist with the outer bushing sleeve removal which was the real PITA. Installation of the new bushings was a breeze.


I simply used a vice grip to secure the LCA while I Thor hammered the new bushings in with press sleeve and a small sledge.


Re-installing the LCA was a slight challenge due to the limited space to sneak in the new washers that came along with the Whiteline bushing kit but I eventually made it work. Reset the match points on the cambers, reseated the rack and pinion, and then torqued all things back to OEM spec.

Having that ordeal out of the way, I started working on the TBU and replaced the rubber line with a steel braided replacement then switched back to getting the knuckle back to it's rightful place:


I give the old caliper a sweet farewell and say hello to the Tundra calipers which I decided NOT to color as I felt the black looked pretty enough. I stare at it real hard and then I tell it get to where it belongs and STAY!


All the hard work completed and, only after I reviewed this picture did I noice that I placed the retaining clip up-side-down:


Well, that was corrected and then I had the p-l-e-a-s-u-r-e of doing this procedure all over again with the driver side - yippy-kai-yay-MF's!

Just when I think it's all done, FedEx delivers my ToyTec differential drop kit which replaces the ridiculously crappy RevTek poly bushing spacers which really smush to 3/4" after 1 week of use and 1/4" spacer to correct my driver side lean.

I'll spare the details on the spacer since it's just plug and play.

But, here are some pics of the crappy poly spacer, distorted after 1 week of use, vs the aluminum spacer which should NOT have that problem.



Now imagine how much you'd have to pay someone if you didn't do these things yourself?

A well deserved beer ended the night in good fashion.

Allows you to place items on it, molle packs, flashlights, tools, cb radios, etc. Things you normally want within reach of the drivers seat.

347,500 changed my iac with a new factory one also changed the throttle body gasket with a mahle , then changed the fuel pump , at 347,598 got 285/75r16 Goodyear duratracs installed and I’m loving it also installed my weathertechs