I hope the black-ringed IMS59-50222's I have sitting in my garage are not
going to give me any grief! I know it's not going to be Caddy smooth, and
likely much better than my blasted apart 5100's, but they are a fair premium
price for a shock to deal with a back-n-forth situation.

I'm also using Tundra TRD coils, so I may be a bit overdone all around...

Today I got my TB back from Maxbore. Installed it and included matching gasket. Voila, idle under 1,000 for the first time in months. Seems 25 years and 364k mi wears parts out. Maxbore was easy to work with and had work done and shipped in time frame promised. Highly recommend.

thats neat. do they service the ICV while he has it or is that up to you. The shaft the butterfly spins on has a tendency ( with age) can get worn and produce leaks....meaning sucking in air from outside the intake system.... do they address that too ? What about the tps electrical...do they look at that ? Or is it strictly a boring service? Just curious if I ever have issues with the shaft leaking...the ICV and the TPS I can service my self....and have many times over the years with various yotas. .
If it is strictly a boring job....is it to increase air flow etc and does it match the intake manifold

just asking as I am not familiar with this kind of service....not saying wrong or right.....just trying to learn.

I'd already replaced ICV in my attempt to fix it. It was all boring, new blade, new shaft (I think, looks different, maybe just cleaner than I got it) and matched gasket. I'd cleaned the TB awhile back and apparently the carbon/crud buildup sealed it, started my idle issues.

Nothing exciting - did the Scarab washer-bottle relocate and tried oil bags for a squeeze-fill of the TC. Worked great. The Valvoline was all I could find and I no longer stress about oil brands as long as it's compliant with the spec. I've read in these very forums that you don't want the LS additive, but I can squeeze in some other bags anytime. Capacity is 1 bag + one squeeze of bag 2.

RE: the washer bottle - visualize the caps being at more or less the same height in the bay and you can see space gained (new front bumper incoming).

Edit - lost some photo resolution along the way somewhere - Airdrop?

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Got a couple of custom length driveshafts in for my NWF-Eco Crawler install. Very stout tubing as well.

Now I'm just waiting on the triple-stick kit to arrive from NWF....

so a previous owner ( 2 back, last owner owned it about a year) anyway that owner 2 a few years back did the TBU about 60k ago.. Other mods on this rig. although minor I believe he was into the 3rd gens...including a fuel cut off switch hidden under dash.. Handwritten papers that came with rig showed it was done in 2017..about 50k ago. When I bought it a year back now...I was glad to see that it had the TBU using 13wl calipers ( saw when I switched to my winter tires and wheels). Fast forward....brakes were real dust makers and worn out...casting on rotors was obvious they were aftermarket. Rig acted like warped rotors the past few weeks, could have been deposit as I do lots of hills in extreme temps. So new yota rotors, new yota pads ( the big ones with no campber cuts and uses shims), napa rebuilt calipers, stop tec hoses. Grandson helped me bleed brakes. We did it 4 times, after 2nd I went out on our gravel road...locked up abs a few times...then came back and bled twice more
however when the first TBU was done....they were not afraid of cutting the dust shield. Prob an inch above and below of caliper and on the part where rotor can hit....easily 1/4 inch gap. Brake pedal feels a bit better might be my wishful thinking.

Oddly enough...I got calipers for a 2005 tundra...got speed bleeders for 2005 tundra...they did not fit. (13wl) and bleed screw is real small in diameter on both. 10mm on rear bleed screws....8mm on these tundra fronts...wrench size...dont know if normal

next up in a few weeks im replacing rear brake hose and rear cylinders ( on hand) ...shoes looked fine as I pulled drums to look at condition..and pulled rear abs thingys...no oil.....but i needed to get back on the road. would be nice to figure out front speed bleeders...as got them for the rear cylinders and they do fit the new ones.1 inch bore not the smaller ones.

I also put on my summer wheels and tires (KO2's) thats good for about 4 to 5 months here. snow 3 weeks ago and hits again mid to late october.

I see you got the squeeze bottles of gear oil. they really push that here now dont know if they push it in your location...anyway " they" say it makes it real easy to put gear oil into diffs and transfer case....true or a sales ploy by manufacturers cutting costs.? Im used to the plastic "bottles" and the hand pump. not saying wrong or right...just wanting to learn and if they work to get oil into our TC's and diffs, front and rear any easier....not being critical....but to me does not look easier ( because of space needed) or cleaner ( I can imagine the possibilty of bag splitting as I am squeezing)...just saying/guessing /learning....and would like to know your experience

This was my first time with the squeeze 'bags'. I had seen them online but not really on the shelves yet. I am used to seeing the more rigid squeeze bottles with the pointy tip. The bottles worked more or less, but aren't nearly as flexible. With these bags you can hold it in one hand and easily make them fit in any tight space. TC worked great and the rear diff would be a breeze - don't see why it wouldn't be fine on the front diff, but haven't tried it.

good to know...learn more everyday....thanks for your honest reply

Just installed the Satoshi grill on Sunday. Definitely gives the Runner a different vibe! Worth It!

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Regreased my brakes and pads to keep them from sticking. Anyone have any idea where this leak is coming from, maybe a freeze plug? It's up above the starter and I'm very slowly losing coolant

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After having a code pop up for my trans ( this truck is new to me in last month ) I decided to start some much needed maintenance.

I'm not the most mechanically inclined but try anything once before i ship it off to get fixed... this is also going to be my daughters rig at some point ( shes 15 ) will see but she has awesome patients where i just scream and throw tools... which happened a lot last night!

We dropped the transmission pan to replace the filter and do another fluid drain and fill ( shit was black and silver... terrible )

I didn't realize what a PAIN it was to finagle the dip stick tube around and out... literally costs us at least 2 hours of awfulness... took off sway bar was still brutal.

here is a picture of the pans inside... its fuked but praying i wont need a new tranny asap... we will save for one but dont need that expense right now for a truck we drive every other weekend for adventures.

anyway we started out planning to do the trans filter, trans cooler, mag in line filter, grease everything, diff services front and rear plus the transfer case...

we spent 6 hours of hell on the trans pan and filter alone. with cleanup.

here is the pan before cleaning !!! YIKES !!!

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First of all, thanks to all of you who have posted over the years with how to's and helpful pictures. Because of the knowledge and help I got from this forum I decided to join my self and maybe help others in the future.

I swapped out my old Bilstein 5100's that have been on my 2000 4runner for who knows how long (bought car used) for some RC V2 Monotube's. This is one shock that I could find very little information about and zero info of others running it on the 3rd gen application. I also removed the stock rear diff breather that was completely compromised and did not vent at all. This is more than likely what caused the axle seal to leak on the previous owner. I did the 6ft long hose mod and vented into the fuel door location.

Installation was pretty standard. The shocks look great and seem to perform excellent so far. I can report back in the coming weeks with updates if anyone would like. I will attach pictures later tonight as I forgot to snag some last night during the install.

I have been running the RC loaded struts up front and the ride has been great.

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I finished the valve cover gaskets job today! Feels good and so far the car has not blown up - lol

Problem is... I think it's still leaking oil. Maybe the oil pan gasket? Either way it was WAY obvious the valve cover gaskets needed to be done so at least I have eliminated that oil leak cause.