I have checked the wiring and it seems to be good, it has no symptoms of a bad knock sensor. I just don’t have the time or money to do a job like that.

Uhhhh, the first symptom of a bad knock sensor is throwing the p0325 code, other symptoms aren't always present for a bad knock sensor or can come about later.

You can replace it or not that's up to you, it can however possibly do some serious damage to the engine or it could be fine, really not worth the risk IMHO!

I doubt the issue/code is going to go away unless you address the cause.

Trying to get a properly functioning brake system going,
so installed the ol' "Scamazon special" brake booster.

So far, I'm....not really sure if it's worth it?
The install went rather smoothly, but the check valves
are different size (OEM is larger dia.) so I couldn't re-use
my newish Toyota one. The rubber grommet is also
way cheaper feeling. I even had to trim the vacuum hose to fit it.
(Gotta save that $500 markup somehow..!)

The biggest issue is the brakes feel even harder now.

Now, this could be my imagination, but with my TBU I would assume
the throw would be longer and a little more..progressive?
The pedal comes on really early and doesn't have the modulation
I was kind of expecting given the condition of the original booster.

This might get returned unless there is something else I am missing?

Also pictured are my new favorit-est Igarashi IPS Hyper Long Pliers.
Super nice for hose clamps and other hard to get connections.
Highly recommended!

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When I did just the tbu and still had rear drums, the pedal was a bit mushy, or progressive as it's called.

Maybe your old booster was bad, and you just got used to it. And now the new one is functioning normally and feels firmer. Does it feel like it's assisting or does it feel like there is no vacuum assist? Does the booster loose its vacuum with engine off and a few pumps of the pedal.

Did you need to adjust the boosters plunger (one that goes into the master)? It could be pushing the master in a bit thus a more firm pedal?

The pedal does firm up properly with the engine off and drops upon start.
When driving, I would perhaps initially describe it as lack of vacuum,
but not close to the panicky wtf-is-up-with-my-brakes sensation.

I spent a fair amount of time making sure the plunger and pedal bracket
matched the old booster - which as far as I can tell is original, so I
hope I did a good job, but don't forget my sigline...

It may just be the "new sneaker effect" where I was so used to
old ones, I forgot what a fresh pair feels like!

I really just did the install and drove a few miles home, so I will give it
the rest of the weekend to see what's what.

New Years Eve (and then Day) I got two wheels painted. Last Sat night/Sunday I got the other two done.

Tonight I removed the old rusty rear bumper and sides. Heat was extremely helpful, as well as PB blaster. Only broke three of the rear mudflap bolts and only one of the bumper "y" support bolts needed the small angle grinder to set it free.

Tomorrow she's getting a new rear bumper.

2000 SR5, 4x4, 3.4L, SafTCap poster child. Looks great on top. Underneath is freaking horrible.

agree give it a few days

If my company knew what I get up to in the parking lot on the weekends, I'm not sure if they'd approve! I probably shouldn't be allowed to work on vehicles at all it always turns into a yard sale. Since I had my previous trans cooler running in series, I didn't have to pull the 25 year old factory trans lines off the metal lines until now. Holy hell that was an adventure - plus it was dark by then, as I left that plumbing until the end. The funny thing I wanted to mention was that a co-worker did drive by and and asked "Do you need a jumpstart?" I wanted to say 'I need a lot more than that that, lady....' but politely declined.

Picture upload is failing....will try another way.

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Complete front/rear brake job with OEM Toyota parts, plus fluid flush.
Parts stash in the garage is nearly gone!

Decided the click/clack of the Johnny Joints needed to be addressed.
Lil' diy with a big ol' mudflap yielded a few washers that hopefully last.

I'm only doing the upper/frame joints as they have the least clearance
and I assume they are the ones making the noise. If not, I'll just pop
'em out again and make some more for the lowers.

I don't think it will pressure the joint to the point the jam nut is getting
affected, but I'll keep an eye on it. I also tightened down the zerk more.

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First time 3rd gen owner, got to work on the spark plugs and found that they weren't properly torqued to spec and were also autolite. No wonder I had a misfire, went and replaced them with Denso Iridium TT's and now the thing moves much nicer!

Installed a 1/4" spacer on the drivers side front strut due to lean; it definitely helped a little bit but still have some small lean angle.

Did not take measurements but all is good for now until I get a better front suspension setup.
One thing I am a little peeved about though is that the spacer was $8 from wheelers but the shipping for that little thing was $25! Crazy.

Also bought a drivers side CV axle from NAPA and will install when the weather warms up a little bit, the inner boot on the axle currently installed has been ripped for about a year

Nothing really, just cleaned up the corrosion on the terminals using a wire wheel/drill and sprayed the undercarriage and body. 250k and very stout, rarely have to look over the 4Runner my other cars keep me busy over the weekend.