Yep, the black ones 663-1004.
I've still got the bolts, they're out of the truck and covered in b'laster stuff. They didn't give me too much trouble coming out- I didn't even try until they'd had a couple of days to think about their situation.

Will get pics to you one way or another, will try to do it tonight (central time).

EDIT: just realized I didn't answer your question. I went with the ones for the 96 Toyota 90080-10066, the flange bolts that match what's on the left side.

Charlie, would you mind sharing a photo? You know that parts are substandard when they rust in So Cal!

Thanks for the pics. I guess that's not super surprising given that they are finished in black oxide, not plated.

I'm going to update my recommendations based on this feedback, I think the Toyota black bolts are a better choice, since they were essentially tied with ARP, but are plated and won't rust like these did.

If I can dig up my test setup I might run some tests on ARPs stainless bolts, like the 761-1004. They are 300 series, so a tad weaker than the chrome moly bolts, but they won't rust. That may be a good alternative:

Finally able to log back in here as anyone else had an issue ? Anyway changed front brake pads and rotors at 383,988 then changed oil at 384,987

Changed the left shock using the truck as a spring compressor.
I'm silly pleased with how well this worked.

A few pics with explanations, description of the entire job was a few posts back.
I'm still not a mechanic, but I can whip up a whole lot of school lunches!
Floor jack to lift the loosened lower control arm and compress the spring so I can remove the shock.


Using a wrench to push and guide the shock shaft into place, part of installing the new one.


and there you go, ready for the bushing, washer, and nut

Can't wait to see this beast completed.

Started the work on the land cruiser rear caliper brackets and wilwood mc4 parking brake bracket. My co workers dad is a carpenter and he planed me down some hard wood to use for the bracket template. I used the ford caliper bracket to get the axle housing bolt pattern, then started mocking everything. Started with the caliper, was going to use some penny's to space the caliper bracket off the rotor, but I used some zip ties taped to the rotor and it worked perfectly. Got the caliper bracket as close to centered as I could (I don't have any m12 shims at the moment).

The caliper fits perfectly. Moves freely and the line and bleeder are perfect! Next up was the parking brake. It was a bit more tricky as the lever and cable brackets stick out a bit. Since I was only mocking up on the passenger side (brackets are the same left to right) I had to get it to clear the panhard mount and bump stop (I'm changing to perry parts bumps) so I'll have a bit more room then the oem bumps.

Got it mounted to the bracket. Now the big test is wheel clerance. It fits perfectly. About 1 inch all around on a oem 5 star 16 inch rim. Sweet. Tidied up the template by removing material where it's not needed. I'll use 3/8" steel for the brackets. Cutting them out will be fun though.....sigh....

Here are some pics.

Edit to add: I'll be swapping to a lc80 brake booster and master cylinder as well.

Attached Images

         

Sick as hell

Anyone know a skilled body shop place in the north Idaho area? Broke my mirror, dented my frame around the window.Wondering if someone knows of a guy who can do body work/replace window as well? Don't want frame to rust

Attached Images

 

Almost to the end of my 1997 4runner build. I started this project in 2021 to build the best 3rd gen I could, almost full restoration. I'm moving to my final project, a full engine rebuild. This last month, I got most of the car painted, new rims and tires, and nano ceramic tint.

Link to the full build sheet with costs and links -
4runner build - Google Sheets

Attached Images