[BamaDrewski]

OK. I decided to replace all of the AC components on my 2000 T4R Limited after the AC died. I got a nice 14 years of service out of the original system.

Here are a few things I would recommend to anyone doing this. First off, make sure you purchase Denso parts. I found most of mine on Amazon and the prices were really inexpensive. (Denso is the OE supplier to Toyota)

Here is what I purchased:

New Condenser
New Evaporator Core
New Compressor
New Expension Valve
New Reciever/Drier
New O-Ring kit from Advance Auto Parts.
AC Pressure Sensor from Autozone (Brand is Santech)
One new hose

The AC compressor was not difficult to get out after I decided to do the following:

1. Removed the skid plates (you will need this to tension the compressor belt and other things)
2. Removed the bolts holding on the power steering pump and move out of the way. (No need to disconnect the lines to the pump – BUT disconnect the little sensor connected to the pump)
3. Removed the air box.
4. Removed the fan shroud and fan (Trust me – this helps!)

Once the space was opened up, I was able to disconnect the sensor from the compressor, and then remove the bolts holding the compressor on to the bracket. TIP: To access the bolts holding the lines to the compressor and the top two bolts that mount the compressor, take two long extensions and access through the rubber flip down “curtain” in the passenger wheel well. This gives you straight shot.

With the air box, power steering pump and fan shroud out of the way, you can ease the compressor up through the top between the passenger fender well and the engine.

For the bottom bolts on the compressor, access them from up top. They will not come all the way out because they are long and will hit the frame. They will unscrew enough to release the compressor from the bracket. TIP When installing the new compressor, MAKE SURE to put in the two bottom bolts before wiggling the compressor into place and then tighten the two bottom bolts once it is in place.

I also took out the evaporator. It’s fairly easy.

1. Disconnect the liquid line and the discharge line under the hood on the passenger firewall. WARNING: The liquid line has a special connector. I found it was easy to remove with a very small jewelers screw driver when pushing down the tabs from the top.
2. Just remove the glove box, the horizontal support for the glove box (4 bolts)
3. Take out the top of the glove box and disconnect the wiring that is attached to the top.
4. Remove the plastic air vent tube running horizontally behind the glove box (Just pops out – no screws)
5. Disconnect the wiring to the cooling unit (box holding the evaporator)
6. Tuck the cooling unit harnesses out of the way.
7. Remove 4 bolts holding the cooling unit onto the body.
8. Pull the unit down a little and pull out. (Be careful here because as you pull the unit out, the evaporator drain and grommet in the firewall will probably fall out and land under the truck)
9. The cooling unit box has three clips on the side (they pop off) and then 3 screws holding it together.
10. Remove the clips and screws.
11. The unit comes apart revealing the evaporator core and expansion valve. (The evaporator box was really nasty and the evaporator was on its last leg. I cleaned the box with a vacuum and then washed it in the dishwasher and it looks like new)

Flushing the lines (liquid line, discharge line, etc.)

I bought a can of AC PRO aerosol AC flush from Advance. It has a tube and pointed rubber tip. I flushed all the lines and blew them out with air. I set them aside to put on when all the parts were in.

Compressor Priming

I purchased the compressor from Amazon. It’s the Deno 10PA version and is an exact match to the original one on the truck. You have to relieve the pressure on the unit when it arrives, take off the shipping plate and pour out the factory oil. It had 100cc’s in it. I replaced it with PAG46 (with dye) from Advance. YOU MUST REUSE THE OLD COMPRESSOR MANIFOLD PLATE. Simply take off the old plate, clean it up, replace the compressor gasket (comes with the compressor) and use the old compressor bolts to attach the old manifold plate to the new compressor.

Everything is back in. From here, take it to a shop and have them vacuum down the system for about an hour. The system only takes about 1.5lbs of R134a and a good shop can make sure it is "metered in" in the right amount and flow. With all new components, there is no need to use that "leak seal" stuff. Hope this has been a helpful write-up. Feel free to contact me with any questions.

[LittleCaesar]

I have to ask what the bill is for all these parts? Did you need all of them to be replaced? Amazon is good on pricing, used to be even cheaper. Fewer auto parts are being made in the PRC now, maybe that has something to do with it.

It sounds like you should get another 14+ years out of this systems as well.

[TheDurk]

I would be curious to know exactly what O-ring kit you got from AA. Did it have them all?

Nice job.

[BamaDrewski]

Here is the breakdown of the costs for everything. My buddy has a SnapOn system that vacuums, adds oil, checks for leaks, puts in R134a and he did it for free. I am now getting frostbite in my truck!

Item Part # Brand Amazon
AC Compressor with Clutch 88310-35770-84 Denso $195.71
Condenser 477-0518 Denso $62.68
Evaporator Core 88501-35050 Denso $133.62
Expansion Valve 88515-22240 Denso $28.12
Pressure Switch 88645-04040 Santech $16.90
Receiver/Drier 88471-34010 Denso $17.82
O-Ring Kit FourSeasons $12.00
Aerosol AC PRO Flush AC Pro $18.00

TOTAL $594.84

[LittleCaesar]

Any shop would have charged you just that much for a expansion valve replacement as well as to vacuum and fill. Nice job.

I have a very small leaking O-ring somewhere (add just a little yearly). Do you remember how many came in the kit? I have a friend whose son works at AA so I will see if I can get the part number and post it.

[TheDurk]

Originally Posted by LittleCaesar

Any shop would have charged you just that much for a expansion valve replacement as well as to vacuum and fill. Nice job.

I have a very small leaking O-ring somewhere (add just a little yearly). Do you remember how many came in the kit? I have a friend whose son works at AA so I will see if I can get the part number and post it.

It's 26749. AA has application specific A/C seal kits--very cool. I had no idea this existed.

Vehicle-specific kit includes all necessary gaskets, o-rings and seals to service the AC system.
Product Application(s):
1999 Toyota 4Runner
A/C System O-Ring and Gasket Kit; AC System Seal Kit; O-Ring and Gasket Seal Kit
AC System Seal Kit; O-Ring and Gasket Seal Kit

Factory Air Air Conditioning O-Ring/Gasket Kit 26749: Get the best A/C Compressor Job/Kit at Advance Auto Parts

The user comments include this info:

A: The compressor discharge (high side)1/2" #8 o-ring is included.
The compressor suction (low side) is not. Must purchase separately.
SEE: Factory Air part #24681 available at Advance Auto. (10/$14.99)

This may have been supplied with the new compressor. Sometimes A/C components include the correct O-rings.

[LittleCaesar]

Durk, thanks for doing the legwork. I'll be sure to grab these for future use then.

[TheDurk]

Originally Posted by LittleCaesar

Durk, thanks for doing the legwork. I'll be sure to grab these for future use then.

Yeah, I also have a small leak. After this season, I'll use my sniffer to find it. Assuming it's a seal, I'll do all the accessible O-rings at once and recharge. I have gauges and vacuum pump. I just need a shop to recover.

[eplanajr]

I did the same except I did not find it necessary to remove the fan and shroud, or many of the things that you removed.
I swapped in a new-to-me compressor, a new clutch, and a new drier.

[snow junky]

That's one way to fix your ac..... What was the problem in first place?

[JohnMc]

I'm a wee bit skeptical on the 'replace everything' approach, but that's not really a horrible price tag.

[BamaDrewski]

I agree that replacing "everything" might be overkill but the way I see it, as I am going to be in the system replacing the compressor and condenser, then it's not really that much more work or time to replace all the major components and get another several years out of the system. The local rip-off shop quoted me $1,098 just to vacuum down, replace the compressor (with Chinese CRAP) and fill it back up. So, for less $$$, I put in Denso parts, checked everything out myself and now I have to wear a winter parka in 94 degree Alabama heat with a 104 heat index. System blows at 38 degrees at the coldest setting. If I had to do it again, I would definitely do it the same way. Having the peace of mind another 14 year old component is not going to fail due to wear and age is good enough for me. (Additionally, I learned a lot by doing this myself - good education)

[BamaDrewski]

Originally Posted by snow junky

That's one way to fix your ac..... What was the problem in first place?

The system just died one day. There was an immediate funny smell in the cabin interior and I figured that was the evaporator. Also, the compressor was shot. (Again, only after 14 years). The hoses looked to be in good shape and the liquid line had a small "gash" in it but it did not puncture the line. I took it to my metal working buddy and he tig welded a bead of aluminum over the weak spot. That saved me $42 on a new liquid line.

For anyone who wants to tackle this job, it's not difficult but it is time consuming. There are a few tricks I learned along the way. For example, the special "connector" on the liquid line normally requires a special tool to remove it. If you take a very small jeweler's screw driver, it can be removed and re-used.

ONE THING I FORGOT TO MENTION: Inside the cooling unit box, there is a "auto climate control sensor". It has a big square piece of white ceramic molded on the end and this end sticks into the inside the box. When I pulled the box and opened it up to replace the evaporator, this ceramic stuff had deteriorated and fallen apart into about 20 pieces. The fragments were lying down at the bottom of the cooling unit box. I replaced that as well. Not sure I listed it but it was $21 from my Toyota guy in Newnan. The local Toyota place wanted $43.

[LittleCaesar]

Just think how much those clowns would have charged you for all the work you did. $1100 for an compressor replacement is high, but not over the moon per se.

IMO nothing beats learning to repair stuff on your own using one's own mental faculties and acumen to save $$$.

[nissanh]

Nice work. It is always good to replace the condenser, evaporation coil and filter together with the compressor.
That big ceramic thing is the fan speed control resistor (correct me if I am wrong).

I did a mod to the heater core output coolant line to keep the heater core cool (even though the flow-in line is closed with a valve, the flow-out line still can transmit heat into the heater core through conduction because it is DIRECTLY connected to the main coolant body)

The last picture (after the mod) shows the air coming out is 0.9 Celsius (33.62 Fahrenheit) It actually went to negative 1.4 but I cannot locate the picture I took. Before the mod it was 2.1 C lowest it went.