Finally got around to installing the 4CE cabin pressure/filter port out back. Inside (3rd pic) is another nasty dust-infested filter material that I really should have tried to vacuum out or something but didn't have a way to do that so i beat it for a while and wiped the area clean.

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Looks interesting. Where does your sunroof drain empty to now?

Good question. If that's what the clear tube did maybe I can can extend it and route it out the mystery plug hole in yellow below. I have my sunroof silicone'd shut currently, so hopefully it doesn't drink much. The clear tube was clipped to the OEM insert in the earlier pic and didn't appear to be going anywhere. Did I disconnect it from something? I'm not putting the stock bumper back on so I can access the internals easily.

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Flushed power steering fluid, removed and cleaned reservoir. Cleaned MAF sensor.

Went for a test drive and I think I heard the front right wheel bearing going out. That's precisely why I don't go to the doctor.

Yep, that's one of the sunroof drains. It runs from the left rear corner of the sunroof to the vent it was clipped into. Just don't pull on it too much, it's got a wimpy spring clamp holding it to the sunroof.
The drain on the right side pokes through a hole in the body, above the tailpipe and under the rear cargo storage. Much like what you're thinking with Mr. Mystery plug.

Replaced my ITREs+OTREs, also decided to do my passenger side UCA. ITREs were in decent shape but the rest was shot! Decided to grab my tools and do it myself and save some cash! Not as bad of a job as I thought; replaced with new OEM parts

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Pulled the ARB bumper off my two-wheel drive, going to be listing it for sale

Decided to clean up the stock bumper before selling the truck, not really sure why LOL

My clutch started slipping so I started researching replacements. Ordered a timken throw out bearing since every kit that I've seen everybody complains about the bearings



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I'll be ordering the pro clutch/flywheel bundle from LC Engineering in a couple months. 5VZ 10" Pro Clutch + Flywheel Bundle Kit They do have just the clutch kit without the flywheel.

After installing the driver side manual hub on Saturday, spent Sunday installing the passenger side. And replaced the split steering rack boot with a rubber one that's (just barely) stretchy enough to fit over the outer tie rod end so no disassembly/potential realignment needed.

And replaced both sway bar links, the passenger side has been loose for a while and making random pops and clunks (WHAT WAS THAT?). It fell right apart at the socket when I put a wrench on it and twisted it.

After that I replaced the oil in the 'new' transfer case and the NWF Eco-crawler doubler case. I've put about 500 miles of driving on it after the install. Oil still looked pretty good coming out, I put Redline 75-90 gear oil back in. And while I was at it, and the belly armor was still off, replaced the trans oil with Redline MT-90, and changed the engine oil. I have a Fumoto valve on the engine, but it's always a struggle to reach in over the skid and fit the drain hose on.

And then I put the belly armor back on again. Ready for our summer Colorado/Utah trip.

I still need to get the coilover wrenches out and raise the front suspension an inch or so. I had them set just short of CV shaft destroying height (where the ribs start rubbing on each other even when going straight). Not a concern with the manual hubs any more.

Decided to celebrate my continued recovery from Covid in the past few days by finally installing the TrakMotive TO-8043ET extended travel axles I picked up a few weeks ago:



Quite a bit beefier than OEM:



Also replaced the axle seals while I was at it:







The passenger side axle popped in just by pushing on it. The driver side was giving me trouble to the point that I started wishing for a friend (hard to come by when you're still Covid positive). Even pounding on it with a 5 lb dead blow didn't do it, because you really need a third hand for that. Then I thought of a trick that I have never seen mentioned (maybe I just didn't see it), which worked like a charm, and the axle popped right in. I wish I had taken photos.

While at it, I noticed some oil under the hub cap on the driver side. I'm guessing that must be bearing oil, which I guess means the bearing is no longer sealed, so time for a new bearing soon?

Nice, thanks! Pricy... $800 delivered

Are you going with the aluminum flywheel or steel?

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What was the trick to installing the seal?

Thanks for those PNs!

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The trick wasn't for the seals, but for popping the axles in. I used a long crow bar (the same one I needed to pry the axle out).

I loosely installed the axle in the differential, until I could feel that the splines were lined up. Then I took the crow bar, pushed one end against the ground, with the middle portion bearing on the flat of the outer CV joint. Then I simply pushed in on top of the crow bar, and the axle popped in with hardly any resistance.

Leverage is your friend!

Here is a crude sketch:

Gotcha. Clever monkey

I've had no issue hammering them in.

I'd like to see your next trick for pulling them out lol

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In my case was able to use my oil filter cap wrench to knock the seal in, the time before I was able to use the old dust shield, but this time it was a new style seal. Froze it and tapped it in place.




that was 2 years ago, so far so dry.

Oooh, I'm seeing what you're saying. Let's cross fingers the beef and boots means he never has to find out,
and, if he does...



Nothing too exciting over this way. A little tiny 20 watt gmrs radio went in, coax and antenna pending, along with reinstall of interior trim,
put the rear skid on after talking to it with the sledge hammer and re-painting it.
Still trying to catch up on all the things that got away from me during the school year of craziness.

Indoors now, 98 degrees with a heat index of 110. It's a wet heat.