Changed the right front shock without using a spring compressor.
It wasn't difficult and not a big deal, but I feel kind of magic right now.

No pics so it probably didn't happen (it did!).

How did you do this? Superhuman strength? Hydraulic press? Well trained elephant? Telekinesis?

Oh darn, I always wanted to see how that's done!

I got to know how you did it lady....ive got some springs and shocks I need to swap out, and i am never using those hook things again in my life.

Did you use the suspension as the press? @fourfive taught me that handy trick

now you got several of us interested how you did it

something like this

Tacoma Coil Over Shock Disassembly without a Spring Compressor - YouTube

This works extremely well!

I dislike re-using the LBJ bolts so many times, and having poly
bushings really helps get the arm to move w/o messing with the cams.

Finally replaced the factory coil packs after 220k miles. Also got the correct spark plugs in (was running 1 step colder for years from my SC days). Replaced the plug wires and MAF as well. She runs so much smoother now.

Fuel pump and fuel filter is next month.

So I needed to replace the right front bilstein, but our spring compressor is a no-how no-way for the front springs so I started doing some research. There were a couple of mentions on a Tundra thread (what my coil-overs are) about spring compressors that do work and then one that mentions doing it using the weight of the truck. There was a link to videos on you-tube called PART 1 TOYOTA TACOMA STRUTS INSTALL | No Spring Compressor, and PART 2... The guy was working on an 05 tacoma, so we have a few more things to detach than he did. Basically, if it's attached to the lower control arm it's either going to be loosened (bolts that hold the lower control arm to the truck- mark alignment cams first) or removed (sway bar link, outer tie rod end, 4 lower ball joint bolts).

I put the right side frame on my super big fun jack stand (harbor fright), pulled the wheel,
Undid the sway bar link, the tie-rod end, the 4 bolts that hold the ball joint assembly on.
Marked, then loosened the bolts for the lower a-arm because we're gonna need that thing to go maximum droop.
Next I supported the lower a-arm with a jack until it was lifting the truck a little. After that I took the nut off the top of the shock shaft, then slowly lowered the jack until the spring was loose. The upper ball joint did hang on the spring a little, but since the spindle wasn't attached to the lower a-arm it was easy enough to move out of the way. Once there was no longer any tension on the spring I was able to undo the lower bolt and remove the shock and spring.

To install the shock and spring I set them in place, somewhat loosely bolted the shock to the lower control arm, then slowly jacked up the lower control arm. As it ascended my husband used a wrench (guy in the video used his fingers, no thank you) to guide the shock shaft through the hole in the top-hat.
Once it was through it was just a matter of making sure the spring was in the proper place as I continued to raise the lower control arm (and therefore the coilover) until the nut could be threaded on and installation completed.

Ball joint bolts have been replaced with new (or the ARP) and properly torqued with loc-tite, still need to finish bolting the tie-rod end back on, as well as the sway bar link and the wheel.
Once it's on the ground again I'll tighten up the lower shock mount and lower control arm mounts bolts, making sure to match my marks on the alignment cams. I'll also seat and tighten the tie-rod end.
I didn't replace the top-hat stuff, of course that would be done before installing the new shock and spring.

I'll try to remember pics for the other side, strictly for entertainment as I am not a mechanic, nor do I play one on tv.

@habanero well said on how to use vehicle as spring compressor.

Thing I do different since BJ bolts rated one-time use, disconnect big honkin stud of LBJ.
Procedure works for Tundra 6112's on 3rd gen also.

Nice to know about the poly bushings, and I agree about the bolts. That should have been reflected in my post, thanks to you and 96RedRunner now it is.

You're right about the bolts, I fixed my post to reflect that because that's important.

I have the ARP bolts on the right side, a product of Spiker Engineering's usual well-done research Everything you always wanted to know about LBJ bolts

Being in the rust belt...10 months later...


Which is very likely no problem, but when the older oe bolts on the left side look like this...


Though they're not as good as the ARP test-wise I bought the requisite 4 lower ball joint bolts and used them. I kept the ARP bolts for the uh-oh kit.

@habanero I would stick with messing with cam bolts, while loose rotate cams functioning camming action.
Spray liberally with PB or such better chance of not having to cut them out at later date.
$.02 worth from former StL inhabitant/survivor.

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You're not wrong. Luckily they're still in good shape, the last alignment I had done somewhat recently the tech was surprised. IIRC there was some anti-seize involved regarding the sleeves when I pulled the lower a-arms for new bushings.
My sills....we're not going to look at my sills right now! Repairs need to be made...last winter was rough, I don't know what they were using on the roads, other than it was no good and very bad.

Truck's back together, will do left side when the opportunity exists.

Thanks for sharing these, this is horrible. It looks like the ARP bolts had some basic black oxide coating, which would not be good for an undercarriage or anything else exposed to weather. The Toyota ones have much better plating. I might update my posts in the study to reflect this. Did you switch to the "black" bolts?

Would you be OK if I shared your photos, and can you send me some more if you have them? I think you have my contact info; if not, just ping me on PM.

The ARP's on my LBJ's here in SoCal are rusting too - not *quite* that bad, but still fully rusted top and bottom. They will definitely have to be brushed and soaked before removal in the future. Looks like whatever makes those bolts strong also makes them prone to oxidation...

-Charlie